lamb ragu

March 2nd, 2008 · 5,467 Comments

lambragudish.JPG

february 17. new york times sunday magazine. the way we eat. ragu’s are featured in an article called, ‘slow food’, and i am all about making a ragu, especially after my lunch at a voce. their lamb bolognese is a thing of perfection, so i was on one of my missions – to attempt to make one of a similar kind, meaning ‘as good’. i had bought what was called for – a few very basic ingredients – some vegetables for the mirepoix, the meat, tomato paste, rosemary and thyme. and then the next morning we had some snow – in essence, a perfect day to cook up some slow food. if there had been a rub, it would’ve been this.

my house gets cleaned on tuesdays – and this was wednesday. it is the day i am least likely to cook anything because i like to bask in the cleanliness of my countertops and floors, my stovetop and my sink… i like to revel in the orderliness and calm of my wonderously spotless kitchen. i like to invite friends over for dinner on monday. monday is by far the best day to hit my kitchen hard. so because it was wednesday, i vowed to keep it in all its pristine glory. i got out the vegetables and roughly chopped the carrots, onion, garlic and celery, carefully transfering them to the food processor, carefully throwing away the scraps, including any little bit of celery leaf that had hit the floor. after making my chunky mirepoix paste i added this to some olive oil waiting in a hot pan and while that browned for awhile, i washed the food processor bowl, blade and cover and then i put it back together. i was actually getting some smug satisfaction out of all this.

after the liquid was absorbed from the vegetables and there was a sufficient amount of browning happening, i carefully added the lamb and then tossed the butcher paper. my house was starting to smell really good and it looked like a food network set. spotless. perfect. amazing. who knew you could even do this? after at least 30 minutes of browning, in went the tomato paste – the cans immediately going into the trash, the bottle of wine now emptied into the meat following right behind them. the rosemary was chopped and the stems were quickly discarded.

this was all too good to be true. i even tied the thyme into a bundle with butcher string… yep. i know. too much. but i did it. and it was sooooo adorable.

lrappan2.JPG

but then here’s what happened. after it was all said and done – after the low 3+ hour simmer and the numerous additions of water – not to mention the copious amounts of care and attention… when i tasted the ragu, i thought it was too tomato-caramely sweet. and it bothered me on a deep and meaningful level.

this was not what i had in mind. but i was done with it for the day, so i put the ragu into containers, let it cool down, and then i popped ’em in the fridge and i let it go…

lambragu1.JPG

until the next day. when i ran to the store. rebought all the ingredients – except the tomato paste – and did it all over again, unwilling to accept a ragu that mario would not.

but today i was in a time crunch and and since it was now thursday, the kitchen proceeded to get hammered. totally. hammered. but there i was… browning, forming a crud and scraping it off the bottom. browning, forming another crud and scraping it off the bottom. it’s the way you get the big flavor. crud. you gotta embrace the crud. and then i mixed the two together. and i had it. a very tuscan lamb ragu. this is anne burrell’s recipe, the chef at ‘centro vinoteca‘ in nyc. it is done the same way that bill buford describes in his book ‘heat‘, the very technique he was taught while an apprentice at ‘babbo‘.

anne, bill and mario all did their time cooking in tuscany – watching very closely – and this is how it’s done. it is all about the browning and the scraping of the crud. and then – browning and scraping off the crud some more. and then the long, slow simmer.

and this right here, this is the classic brown food of tuscany.

Lamb Rag
adapted from anne burrell at centro vinoteca

1 large onion
chopped 2 carrots
chopped 3 celery stalks
chopped 4 cloves garlic
chopped Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
3 pounds ground lamb leg or shoulder
1 cup tomato paste
3 cups hearty red wine
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
3 bay leaves
1 bunch thyme, tied in a bundle
Freshly ground black pepper
Pici, bucatini or pappardelle, cooked al dente

1. Using a food processor, puree the onion, carrots, celery and garlic to a coarse paste.

2. Coat a large pan generously with olive oil and set over medium heat. Add the purred vegetables, season with salt and cook until all the water has evaporated and the vegetables begin to brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir frequently and be patient. (This is where the big flavors develop.)

3. Add the lamb, season generously with salt and cook until it is browned, about 25 to 30 minutes. (Brown food tastes good; don’t rush this step.)

4. Add the tomato paste and cook for about 5 minutes. Stir in the red wine, rosemary and bay leaves. Cook at a lively simmer until the wine has reduced by half. Add the thyme bundle and enough water to cover the lamb by about 1 inch. Simmer for 3 to 4 hours, stirring and tasting frequently and adding more water as it evaporates. Skim the fat off the surface. Remove the bay leaves and thyme. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss with al dente pasta and serve with grated Parmesan.

i’d halve the tomato paste for sure. and for my pasta, i used a pretty sizable rigati and i also opted for a dollop of ricotta as opposed to the grated parmigiano that anne’s recipe calls for. ‘a voce’ serves theirs with fresh sheeps milk ricotta. and i used polly-o. because i live in nashville.

i know.
no really, i know.
so just leave it alone, ok?

i can so read your minds…

Tags: lamb · pasta

5,467 responses so far ↓

  • 1 stephen curry shoes // Nov 10, 2017 at 5:05 pm

    I really appreciate this post. I’ve been looking everywhere for this! Thank goodness I found it on Bing. You have made my day! Thank you again!

  • 2 stephen curry shoes // Nov 10, 2017 at 5:21 pm

    I do not even know how I finished up right here, however I believed this publish was once good. I don’t realize who you are however definitely you are going to a famous blogger should you are not already. Cheers!

  • 3 lebron soldier 10 // Nov 10, 2017 at 5:39 pm

    I simply want to mention I am all new to blogging and actually enjoyed your web page. Probably I’m planning to bookmark your blog post . You definitely come with exceptional posts. With thanks for sharing with us your website page.

  • 4 Cheap NFL Jerseys China // Nov 10, 2017 at 5:55 pm

    Perhaps the most important feature of your new profession revolves around setting goals and their achievement.Public places are the areas where the people get the most foot fall and are treated with most of the crowd. Build a page explaining how other businesses can advertise on you website. These are made ??in the green parts of the plant and are transported to the seed in development. And thus people always are careful towards selecting the right furniture for themselves.

  • 5 curry 3 // Nov 10, 2017 at 6:45 pm

    Film: run over by a train from Nike basketball shoes on the track, look at the shoes become what?

  • 6 http://futbolvakti.com/?p=10334 // Nov 10, 2017 at 7:17 pm

    http://studygood-nazran.ru

  • 7 http://zeybekajans.com/?p=6426 // Nov 10, 2017 at 7:34 pm

    http://www.cngcountrycafe.com

  • 8 http://cuoihoiwin100.com/?p=3147 // Nov 10, 2017 at 7:50 pm

    http://oneway.com.tr

  • 9 kanye west shoes // Nov 10, 2017 at 8:23 pm

    bookmarked!!, I really like your blog!

  • 10 nmd human race // Nov 11, 2017 at 12:15 am

    My brother suggested I might like this web site. He was entirely right. This post actually made my day. You can not imagine simply how much time I had spent for this info! Thanks!
    nmd human race http://www.adidasnmdhumanrace.com

  • 11 进口注意事项 // Nov 11, 2017 at 12:37 am

    2、 2014年汉诺威展会期间,将密切合作共同加强对企业专有技术(know-how)的保护,其目标是通过充分利用信息通讯技术和网络空间虚拟系统、信息物理系统, 仅仅将价格低廉作为竞争优势,同时提供锯台定尺加工 特殊规格木材代购 物流速运等一条龙服务!美国佛州很多地区正在进行开发,这也导致很多外卖送餐员一天能送很多单, 目前,木质细腻,豆瓣菜。

  • 12 adidas nmd xr1 // Nov 11, 2017 at 3:21 am

    Thank you for any other informative blog. Where else may just I am getting that type of information written in such an ideal way? I have a project that I am just now working on, and I’ve been on the look out for such information.
    adidas nmd xr1 http://www.adidasnmdxr1.us

  • 13 adidas ultra boost // Nov 11, 2017 at 3:41 am

    Howdy! I’m at work surfing around your blog from my new iphone 4! Just wanted to say I love reading your blog and look forward to all your posts! Carry on the outstanding work!
    adidas ultra boost http://www.ultraboostadidas.us.com

  • 14 barbour jackets // Nov 11, 2017 at 4:01 am

    ingin usaha developer Property tapi belum ngerti metodenya ?
    barbour jackets http://www.barbourjackets.us.com

  • 15 lebron 14 // Nov 11, 2017 at 4:20 am

    Really when someone doesn’t be aware of afterward its up to other viewers that they will assist, so here it happens.
    lebron 14 http://www.lebron-14.us

  • 16 adidas tubular // Nov 11, 2017 at 5:46 am

    American pizza companies launched smart basketball shoes on, can be a key called pizza
    adidas tubular http://www.adidastubular.us

  • 17 kyrie 1 // Nov 11, 2017 at 6:24 am

    Why people still make use of to read news papers when in this technological world the whole thing is accessible on web?
    kyrie 1 http://www.kyrie1.us

  • 18 cheap replica u-boat watches // Nov 11, 2017 at 7:00 am

    Be encouraged that all Montblanc models that were special have now been sculpted from the makes
    cheap replica u-boat watches http://fowlerone.seesaa.net/article/452973185.html

  • 19 http://yumac.org/?p=634 // Nov 11, 2017 at 7:17 am

    http://studygood-kursk.ru

  • 20 http://zeybekajans.com/?p=865 // Nov 11, 2017 at 7:34 am

    http://www.wimarpoint.it

  • 21 nmd human race // Nov 11, 2017 at 7:53 am

    Tabletten, generika rezeptfrei online kaufen und usa kaufen, au?er versand aus deutschland, online kaufen deutschland. Rezeptfrei information auch consta preis, online paypal bezahlen und kaufen mit uberweisung trotz filmtabletten kosten.
    nmd human race http://www.nmdhumanrace.com

  • 22 nike sb dunk // Nov 11, 2017 at 8:13 am

    I was suggested this web site by my cousin. I’m not sure whether this post is written by him as nobody else know such detailed about my problem. You are wonderful! Thanks!
    nike sb dunk http://www.nikesbdunk.us

  • 23 curry 4 low // Nov 11, 2017 at 8:32 am

    Thank you for sharing superb informations. Your site is so cool. I’m impressed by the details that you?|ve on this blog. It reveals how nicely you perceive this subject. Bookmarked this website page, will come back for extra articles. You, my pal, ROCK! I found simply the information I already searched everywhere and just could not come across. What a great web site.
    curry 4 low http://www.curry4low.us

  • 24 kyrie 4 // Nov 11, 2017 at 10:15 am

    Wow, fantastic weblog structure! How long have you been running a blog for? you make blogging look easy. The total glance of your site is magnificent, as neatly as the content!
    kyrie 4 http://www.kyrie4.com

  • 25 puma suede // Nov 11, 2017 at 10:37 am

    We delight ourselves on placing our gamers first, offering a continuous first-class gaming experience.
    puma suede http://www.pumasuede.us.com

  • 26 klicken sie hier diesen link jetzt // Nov 12, 2017 at 10:52 pm

    Sie sollten daher präventiv mit Ihrem Kind über dieses Thema sprechen.

  • 27 ich las diese // Nov 14, 2017 at 12:35 pm

    Sie war froh dieses Kleid gewählt und das Entkleiden vereinfacht zu haben.

  • 28 versuchen sie hier // Nov 18, 2017 at 6:00 pm

    Sie stieg erst mir runter als mein Schwanz wieder hart war und ich sie der Missionarsstellung ficken wollte.

  • 29 sexkontakte helmstedt // Nov 20, 2017 at 9:27 am

    Mir steckte die Erinnerung der Nacht mit meiner Freundin noch den top frauen Gliedern.

  • 30 die vollstaendigen details // Nov 24, 2017 at 9:53 am

    Sie zeigen ihre geilen Körper und wollen sich auch gerne mal selbst verwöhnen.

  • 31 pruefen // Nov 26, 2017 at 10:55 pm

    Wer keinen Partner hat, tut sich oft schwer damit, neue Kontakte zu knüpfen und sich neu zu verlieben.

  • 32 gut // Dec 5, 2017 at 7:54 pm

    Aaah, Paolaaa, du scharfes Luder,oooh…du machst mich völlig…

  • 33 sexkontakte ostfriesland // Dec 11, 2017 at 10:56 pm

    Ich werde hier nach und nach die wichtigsten Infos für Webcam Girls und Mädels, die Webcam Jobs suchen veröffentlichen – Online Geld verdienen mache ich schon länger, als Webcam Girl arbeite ich schon seit einem halben Jahr und das Geld passt einfach.

  • 34 yeezy boost 350 v2 beluga 2.0 Dark Grey // Dec 13, 2017 at 12:06 pm

    http://taniadesa.com/2017/yzy350v2d.html

  • 35 yeezy boost 350 blue tint for sale // Dec 14, 2017 at 12:09 pm

    https://www.auladae.com/pages/airjordan11j/

  • 36 amtliche verlautbarung // Dec 24, 2017 at 10:20 am

    Bitte korrigieren Sie Ihre Angabe.

  • 37 coastalchiro // Dec 25, 2017 at 6:05 am

    tigerdog, comunidadfamiliar,
    coastalchiro http://www.coastalchiro.org/

  • 38 hobbyhuren leonberg // Dec 26, 2017 at 4:45 pm

    Die Schamlippen sieht hier schon etwas unter dem Höschen, aber ich habe sicherheitshalber auch Nacktfotos im Profil.

  • 39 nike zoom pegasus 34 white blue // Jan 4, 2018 at 6:24 am

    nike free 5.0 usc,nike air max maroon black
    nike zoom pegasus 34 white blue http://www.westfieldpolaris.com/merry_en/nike-zoom-pegasus-34-white-blue

  • 40 webcam porno // Jan 15, 2018 at 7:03 am

    Sie hatte deutlich größere Oberweite aufzuweisen und einen größeren knackigen Po zu bieten als ich, aber das fiel mir eher durch die Blicke meines Freundes auf, wie geil er zwischendurch danach trachtete, mehr Einblick vor allem hinter die Wölbungen ihre Bluse zu erheischen.

Leave a Comment