so you buy some homemade butternut squash ravioli - mine came from lazarolli’s in nashville. boil them gently in salted water, careful not to burst the little pillows. and then you brown the butter. and there is a technique here because believe me, i’ve blown it before… but i’ve found quite the description of how to go about this and it comes from celia barbour’s christmastime cookie recipe – an excerpt from gourmet’s ‘diary of a foodie’.
Cut up cold butter and set it over moderate heat. When it is all golden liquid, start stirring as the butter begins to simmer. Next, a froth appears on the top; this soon gathers into little clouds, which then dissipate as the milk proteins separate from the fat, cook, and harden into tiny grains that fall to the bottom of the pan. There they’ll sit, turning brown-first pale caramel (beurre noisette), then tea-leaf (beurre noir), and finally, after about ten seconds, black (garbage). I always leave the pan on the stove a few beats beyond rosy caramel to give a deeper flavor to the cookies. Nerves of steel, I say to myself, stirring vigilantly. At the very last second, I take the pan off the stove and set it in cold water.
now we know. nerves of steel…
then chop up about 8 sage leaves and maybe 15 seconds before you think the pan is ready to take the plunge, throw in the herbs so they can flavor the butter. when you think you’re safe (temperature wise), rewarm the sauce very gently and then drizzle generously over the ravioli’s.
the final touch is unbelievable. seriously. unexpected yet sublime. i used 75% pralus. it’s my favorite brand these days. just whip out the microplane grater and do a light dusting of the best chocolate you’ve got. it’s a total wow.
then go ride your bike for 2 hours.
13 responses so far ↓
1 Elizabeth // Sep 20, 2007 at 6:06 am
Hooray for food without a face! I just saw a recipe yesterday for homemade goat cheese ravioli with brown butter, but this looks better. And easier, although I don’t have a good ravioli store here in the ATL.
2 Butta Buns // Sep 20, 2007 at 6:59 am
It’s taking a few minutes for the chocolate on pasta part to sink in. Man, that’s so counter-intuitive. Chocolate. On pasta. I definatly must try it now.
3 Mari // Sep 20, 2007 at 8:03 am
My mouth is watering! I so love squashes, especially butternut. Fat chance I’ll find some here though, so I guess I’ll have to get out my pasta machine, one of these days….
4 annie // Sep 20, 2007 at 8:56 am
Dear Lord, are you trying to kill me?! I love squash ravioli above all other raviolis, and now I will have to, I don’t know, think about baseball stats to keep it out of my mind….
5 clumsy // Sep 20, 2007 at 1:37 pm
Oh I love that excerpt! I’m soooo hungry for those raviolis right now!
6 Mr. Mack // Sep 21, 2007 at 11:41 am
Your site is a true feast for the eyes. One day I need to get you to explain to me how a wok works. I want to learn to cook in one, and use all those delicious oils that usually go into them. Maybe we can trade skills. Need a horse broke?
7 Klinde // Sep 23, 2007 at 4:53 pm
I am so smitten with your site. I truly appreciate the tip regarding Lazarolli’s. I am definitely heading to Germantown next Saturday and it will pasta time at my home. Or, better yet, I should convince you to teach me your ways.
Side note: What olive oil do you suggest?
8 Sarah // Sep 25, 2007 at 9:08 am
Oh, Oh, oh, you inspired me and I made this Saturday night (only had 60% cocoa, but you use what you’ve got). It was so rich and fabulous. I love the instructions for the browned butter — my “nerves of steel” produced the best version of browned butter I’ve come up with for a while. AND, you got me to Lazarolli’s, so thank you for that, as well!
9 Nicole // Sep 26, 2007 at 9:45 am
I’m still not 100% sure about the chocolate part but I already know that the browned butter, sage, and squash ravioli are an amazing combination! I wish I had some right now!!
10 claudia // Sep 26, 2007 at 3:41 pm
elizabeth – it’s worth finding some squash ravioli for this one…
butta – do it do it do it – you will be amazed. and remember – a light dusting!
mari – i’ve never ever made pasta but if i was going to try, this would be a good reason to do it!
annie – you and i need to talk – i am so ‘on the wagon’ – starting tomorrow of course – i just got home today!
clumsy – and it’s pretty easy too!
mack – no need to get a horse broke over here – but i’d be happy to discuss the workings of a wok with you. you buy a cheap one and you season it and you work quickly. plus i have a lead on the perfect beginner wok book that will really help you. once you get the hang of it – you’ll be a wonder to alla your friends…
klinde – thanks so much for your kind words. so nice of you – your site is pretty cool yourownbadself! as for olive oil, it so depends… i have a few going for different purposes. if it’s being used raw it’ll be a very good one. for cooking – just an extra virgin will do. once you heat it, it matters not as much…
sarah – oh good! we need to support lazzarolli’s! is this the sarah from bbbs???
nicole – you just MUST go there girl. do not be afraid… move towards the chocolate…
11 Christina // Oct 13, 2007 at 5:16 pm
Chocolate? Wow. This is going on my to-do list, right now.
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