nyc 2.08 part 2

February 21st, 2008 · 11 Comments

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this is a photo of the floor in my mother’s den. the den used to be my bedroom back in 1981, but then i moved out and it was fully renovated and it’s now the room where my mom and her guy spend most of their time. and this is the large petit point area rug that resides in that room which somehow never ceases to mesmerize me. there are 30 patterns, 6 x 5, making a unique rectangle and then it repeats. i am totally OCD when it comes to this rug… wednesday when my mother heard i was coming to visit she decided to make a ‘meet the daughter luncheon’ and serve a few things from my blog. it was a sweet mommy-like concept and after i pleaded with her to just get it all catered (because i know…) we decided on 2 recentdishes that would work nicely together and then i gave her the shopping list. i’ve got to give her credit because after the initial obligatory resistance ("claudia, does it have to be this? can’t you just use that?") she hit quite a few stores really trying to get it right. pimenton, pancetta, san marzano tomatoes, fleur de sel, capers, walnut oil, swiss chard, saffron, french lentils – not her usual go-to ingredients. she cooks the basics, orders in, fine dines with the best of them and then zabars does the rest. so on a saturday morning – and knowing better, my mom heads off to ‘fairway‘ in search of the ‘right’ canned tomatoes. my phone rings and i pick up. the conversation goes something like this…

claudia? i’m in fairway and it’s packed and i can’t find the marzini tomatoes mom, they’re san marzano. san maaarzaaanooo… oh. hold on i see someone. "excuse me? do you have any san marzini tomatoes?" mom? mom! san maaarzaaanooo – not marzini. claudia, no one speaks english here, ok? mom, tell me what you’re looking at. find the ones from italy that say crushed on the can, ok? claudia, they’re all on the very bottom shelf, you have no idea what it’s like here. mom, i used to live there, remember? wait, i have to get down lower, hold on… i hate this damn pocketbook, it’s too big and heavy – hold on….. (i overhear a voice in the background – an older woman also with a very thick nyc accent) "your cart is blocking the aisle and this is no place to be having a conversation" my mother says to me "can you believe these people? HORRIBLE…"

i arrived at her home on wednesday late morning and with the help of lou ann, who works for my mom (bless you, lou ann) we began to make the roasted grape and pancetta salad so that everything would be ready to plate when we sat down to eat. i could write an entire post – and a long one at that, about my mom and the cooking and the dialogue and the arguing… we’re ny jews. she’s 73 and my mother. if you have any questions, you just couldn’t understand. it’s a comedy routine at best and a near murder scene – well, too often. somehow we get through it reasonably unscathed. my mom has a good sense of humor and a short memory. this is a good thing.

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mom set a beautiful table for our pre-valentine’s day luncheon and it really was just so very lovely. big thanks to margie, marie, joan, rita and barbara for coming out on a rainy day to sit and talk and share some good food and wine – and stories. and thank you for your thoughtful gifts (all from williams sonoma!) but mostly for your time. the 4 hours flew by and it made me so happy to see that my mother’s life is filled with such great women. at about 6:30 that evening i got in a cab to meet one of my favorite bloggers for the very first time, amy of ‘minimally invasive‘. i’ve been blogging less than a year and still I can’t even recall how i found amy, but when i did, her photo’s, her food and overall demeanor kinda drew me in and i fast became a fan. she’s a natural with a camera and is a graphic designer so when i was ready for a ceF redesign, i went to her under the guise of who she might suggest to help me with a banner. luckily she took the bait and then took the time and gave me what i wanted – and i paid her as one might pay a true foodie, with a promise of dinner.

we decided on ‘insieme‘ based on both location and pedigree. last may i had a great dinner at ‘hearth‘ and insieme is now the uptown restaurant of chef marco canora where he has left jason frosolone to tend hearth. i also found out that afternoon that my mom had been to ‘insieme’ just the week before and LOVED it – which has to be in capitals because she either LOVES it, or it’s NOT good, or it’s HORRIBLE. my brother does a routine where he says: mom is never cold – she’s freezing, she’s not hot – she’s boiling, she’s not tired – she’s exhausted, she’s never hungry – she’s starving. you get the drift. funny stuff… right away amy and i decided to begin with 2 of insieme’s ‘midtown manhattan’s’ served straight up, made with rittenhouse rye and amaro. and let me just tell you here and now that that was one very fine cocktail. you know, i gotta tell you something else. i love manhattan’s. i always have. but because i love manhattan - well, it has always felt so corny to order them and so i just stopped. but from here on in – it’s manhattan’s for me. made with rye. people, you have just witnessed an epiphany. wow… the lighting in the restaurant was absolutely terrible for any photo ops, so i didn’t bother to shoot anything until dessert. we ordered the grilled sardines (truly excellent) and the fritto misto alla lucchese (truly sub par), a plate of unattractive slabs of 4 kinds of veal – liver, tongue, sweetbreads and cutlet. it was the bummer of the night, badly executed in every way. but then i had the chestnut fettucine with an elk ragu and pomegranate seeds and amy had the branzino saltimbocca wrapped in prosciutto atop cippolini onions, savoy cabbage and sage. both were very good. for dessert, we began with a glass each of pear ‘eau de vie‘ which i had somehow never heard of. we chose two, one italian and one from oregon and there was no contest. USA all the way, plus ours cost less. a double victory. shallow, but still…

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(two pear eau de vie selections – italian on the left, oregonian(?) on the right) then i began looking down the long list of all the various ‘eau de vie’ selections and my eyes fall upon ‘slivovitz‘, pear ‘eau de vie’s’ kosher plum cousin. this was the drink of my people! my grandparents and their parents used to drink this back in the old country and then down on the lower east side.

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(amy boozing it up) as fate would have it, amy is a savory cheese plate kinda girl, but i think when she saw the horror in my eyes she acquiesced and instead we chose a theme of orange and cheese desserts of the sweeter kind.

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an orange torta di ricotta and then the westfield farm goat cheese with 5 spiced candied kumquats and a very ‘pithy’ (amy’s word and a great one) orange sorbet.

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i only had to traverse the 2 blocks to my hotel, but amy had a much longer journey ahead. so our evening came to a close and we parted ways, now friends as opposed to just internet buddies. and i have this feeling that in time, another dinner awaits us…

Tags: travel

11 responses so far ↓

  • 1 democommie // Feb 21, 2008 at 10:33 pm

    Claudia:

    I went to the USOswego Big Band dance and it was the usual hurly burly of seniors who are reliving their youth when there was a USO canteen in Oswego (big USN presence on the Great Lakes back then) and they had bands from NYC up here to play. I’m glad I’ve learned to like swing and big band. I can’t imagine standing around some disco when I’m 75 (nor could I imagine it at age 35).

    Did your pear eau de vie come in a bottle with the pear inside? Both the french and the Oregon distillations are bottled that way I think. I actually have a bottle of slivovitz that a friend brought me (he thought it was grape brandy), it’s fine but I like armagnac better.

    Boy, that food looks delish. I never eat in hyper expensive restaurants (full disclosure, I almost never eat in moderately priced restaurants, either) but that food looks just too yummy.

    Someone commented, on your previous post, that there is such a thing as food porn, I agree, but this is not it. This is food erotica. Food porn is McDonald’s or the like’s advertising. Promises of wonderful satiety, but that’s all it is, just a promise–the reality is guilty, but not particularly pleasurable. This food you show us, otoh, that looks like love on a plate.

  • 2 Lauren // Feb 21, 2008 at 11:36 pm

    This entire post is best if you can insert the stereotypical nyc jewish grandma accent during the Ethel speak portions. Love it! I just gotta say, sardines are bad and scary things. The rest sounds good though. So far Otto is still my food lust pick.

  • 3 democommie // Feb 22, 2008 at 6:40 am

    Lauren:

    Sardines are delicious, if you have them the right way. I’ve had fritos boquerones which are small, whole deepfired sardines in the spanish style. They are delicious. The french and the english do a similar treatment (and I’m betting every country that has access to shoals of these little guys does something similar. Of course, I like sardines out of the can, as long as they are the good ones–and, yes, there are lots of not so good ones out there. I don’t keep track of brands, but I try to buy a can or two that comes from a place that has some relationship with the brand name. “King Olaf”, for instance, from Korea would not instill confidence…

  • 4 Annie // Feb 22, 2008 at 6:45 am

    Oh claudia, you are my sister – we have the same mother who is 73 and Jewish (although my mom is quite a cook and knows from San Marzanos) and they are extremists and they have the same big cabinet of Blue Willow dishes near the dining room table and they both have slivovitz in their genes. I loved this post from the rug (which reminds me, unaccountable of those hard Christmas candies that have flowers in the middle) to the coversation with mom from the Fairway to dinner and the anxiety of thinking you might have to have a cheese plate instead of “real dessert.” (By the way, my dad often has a Perfect Manhattan, and I love them with all my heart. I would like a Manhattan in Manhattan).

  • 5 Lesley // Feb 22, 2008 at 8:04 am

    Oh, the orange torta makes me ache. Ooooohhh.

  • 6 minimally invasive // Feb 22, 2008 at 8:09 am

    A few things:

    1. Thanks for the kind words…and the traffic!
    2. I will DIE if you do NOT bring your mother to dinner next time; she sounds like the best kind of nuts. My mom would’ve been duking it out in the aisles of Fairway.
    3. Is it wrong to crave eau de vie at 9am? I think I have a problem.
    4. Thank you for not using the Giada-head pic. Seriously.

  • 7 TaratheFoodie // Feb 22, 2008 at 5:29 pm

    Oh my God, I could read about your mom for hours – that was hilarious!!! I also used the accent in my head as I read it and I was laughing out loud. I could just picture her in the store getting all pissed off because she couldn’t find the “marzini” tomatoes. Reminds me of my mom (she’s not jewish OR from NY) and how she would be totally lost trying to shop for ingredients that I use every day. She tells me I cook “weird stuff”. I always ask her if I can bring something when she invites me to her house for dinner and she’ll say “well cook something normal ok?” haha…

  • 8 ponyboat // Feb 22, 2008 at 7:53 pm

    This is why I love you. I laughed so hard I scared the dogs! Your mom is my mom, but so much nicer. Mine wouldn’t have bothered trying.

  • 9 melissa // Feb 25, 2008 at 5:48 pm

    “we’re ny jews. she’s 73 and my mother. if you have any questions, you just couldn’t understand. it’s a comedy routine at best and a near murder scene – well, too often. somehow we get through it reasonably unscathed.”

    oh my god hahahaha aaaaah claudia. that is so me and my mom/my sister and my mom. and my mom’s mom? don’t get me started.

    did you ever see that frasier episode where he’s dating the jewish girl (amy brenneman) and she and her mother have this horrible argument right in front of him and then just as quickly make up and he’s all confused? HAHAHAHA!

  • 10 countrymouse // Mar 6, 2008 at 10:44 pm

    A favorite haunt while in Seattle is located under the market in a grotto seemingly carved into the earth.
    “Il Bistro” has been there forever. I go there to drink Poire Williams, and grappa. The brandy burns my sinuses, and the grappa, my throat.
    The memory of these sensations don’t erase those I felt in my stomach while reading of the above mentioned meatish slabs. Ha! ;P

  • 11 yveala // Mar 9, 2008 at 1:30 pm

    you could probably do a blog just about ethel and jewish moms…i’d definately lend you mine for as long as you’d like

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