ceF in vietnam - part 8
hoi an

October 31st, 2010 · 4,608 Comments

i flew into denang and have been in hoi an for nearly a week now and i must tell you that i’d been particularly looking forward to coming here ever since bourdain mentioned his love affair with this small city awhile back. it’s well located on both a river and a beach and you’d be hard pressed to find anyplace more charming.

luckily due to an agreement during the american war, this old city escaped unscathed from any active fighting keeping the ancient buildings intact. over the years due to dwindling trade the village had slid into decline but thankfully hoi an was resurrected about 15 years ago as a big tourist destination and in 1999 received unesco world heritage status. granted i’ve seen more white people here than in any other portion of my journey, yet somehow despite all the tourists and the countless souvenir shops all hawking the "same same but different" stuff, hoi an has retained an elegance that somehow combines the very old with the very new and still holds tight to all its beauty and authenticity.

i spend my days wandering about always hitting the market first to have breakfast and to revel in the simple yet highly aesthetic nature of these people. it’s a gritty kind of beauty but it draws me in. hoi an is small, with narrow streets so there are no cars allowed within parts of the ‘old city’ although motorbikes are allowed 3 days a week. you can feel the french influence in the architecture and it’s often compared to new orleans. but there is no mistaking where you are. this is vietnam...

my first two weeks here i managed to buy nothing at all. i’m traveling light and armed with michael’s measurements my only intention was to pick up a bespoke suit for him while in hoi an, a city well known for its plethora of tailor shops. the plan was to buy just one suit that i would be able to bring back with me in my modest bag.

and then i went fucking crazy. cause you know… you can take the jew out of nyc, but you can’t take the nyc out of the jew. and people, let me tell you. i have been SHOPPING. and it’s been SO MUCH FUN. you pick the fabrics and there are thousands, you pick the style, they tailor fit it to your body - and it’s pretty inexpensive… like, troi oi. i have died and gone to heaven. still though, in the midst of an exhausting shopping frenzy it’s a bit disconcerting when you ask how much that silk dress will be and the answer is 800,000. because that just really sounds like a lot to me. it’s 40 dollars.

i’m buying a cheap suitcase as well…

food. i’m supposed to be talking about food… but really, most of my food is bought on the street and i eat for one dollar when i’m feeling hungry and as much as i love the food here and could wax poetically (or try) about the herbs and the flavors, it is not the food i will remember…

it’s the colors of vietnam…

 it’s the juxtaposition of the old and the new colliding…

but mostly it’s the people of vietnam that take my breath away. and each photo has a story…

i wish you could have seen this… the woman on the left is 90 and her face was so beautiful…

the saleswoman

the paper recycler

the live chicken lady

the wine distributor

the tailors


the salt lady

but alas, a woman’s got to eat and so here are some highlights… each of these was bought on the street and comes with a glass of hot tea

beef with tomato, some kind of sausage on a fried egg served with a perfect baguette, table salad and dipping broth… 85 cents

this was a damn fine breakfast

it came from here. they’re packed up and gone by about 9am.

 a dish from hoi an, cao lau - 75 cents

made here at the market

and this woman by the river

served me this grilled pork. you roll it yourself with first a layer of dry rice paper, then fresh rice paper, the meat and the salad and then dip and eat… 1 dollar

dinner: com ga - chicken with rice and shredded pawpaw with fresh herbs and a broth with chunks of liver - really good - 1 dollar

which came from here…

bun bo - like pho but a richer broth.  my market breakfast - 75 cents

which came from here

closer pick of the market stall  - i believe that’s a pile of pork…

bahn mi - pate and pickled vegetables with herbs a bit of mayo and some sliced pork on a fresh baguette - 50 cents. i eat these often. i forgot to take a picture but they look like a sandwich. a really really good sandwich.

more to come… i need to hit the streets


Tags: asian · travel

4,608 responses so far ↓

  • 1 旧机械进口报关 // Nov 9, 2017 at 5:41 pm

    1、 02个百分点,同比下降8. 另外。昕锐1-6月累计销售40,参与其中的各有关单位既是市场参与者, 针对包括北京卫视、天津卫视、河北卫视等33家卫视的购物栏目, 规定行政机关的“用烟考核”任务。 而城市轨道交通也将蓬勃发展,二者并因此两度诉诸法庭。到2015年。

  • 2 new balance shoes // Nov 9, 2017 at 6:06 pm

    Preiswert, bestellen kaufen und appetitzugler bestellen, au?er und generika, generika once. Original kaufen auch polen rezeptfrei, apotheke schweiz preis und tabletten kaufen ohne rezept trotz in der apotheke.

  • 3 nike pg 2 // Nov 9, 2017 at 10:06 pm

    Thank you for sharing superb informations. Your site is so cool. I’m impressed by the details that you?|ve on this blog. It reveals how nicely you perceive this subject. Bookmarked this website page, will come back for extra articles. You, my pal, ROCK! I found simply the information I already searched everywhere and just could not come across. What a great web site.

  • 4 nike air huarache // Nov 9, 2017 at 10:31 pm

    Preise holland, generika per nachnahme bestellen und rezeptfrei deutschland, au?er epilepsie tabletten, kosten apotheke. Online kaufen rezeptfrei auch niederlande rezeptfrei, kaufen gunstig deutschland und generika kaufen per paypal trotz rezeptfreies in deutschland.

  • 5 lebron 14 // Nov 9, 2017 at 10:56 pm

    Usually I don’t read article on blogs, but I wish to say that this write-up very forced me to take a look at and do it! Your writing style has been surprised me. Thank you, very great post.

  • 6 ultra boost 3.0 // Nov 10, 2017 at 9:43 am

    Wonderful website. Lots of helpful info here. I am sending it to several pals ans also sharing in delicious. And certainly, thank you in your effort!

  • 7 bague cartier femme copie // Nov 10, 2017 at 10:46 am

    Tom Harris has asked me to suggest that you all have a look at the Canadian Senate hearing on our site at
    bague cartier femme copie [url=http://www.braceletluxe.fr/tag/replique-cartier-love-bague]bague cartier femme copie[/url]

  • 8 KmbtgCoance // Nov 10, 2017 at 4:16 pm

    cialis generico http://ccsialisonl.com/ generic cialis reviews [url=http://ccsialisonl.com/]]buy generic cialis[/url]generic viagra rx

  • 9 Quyen // Nov 10, 2017 at 4:46 pm

    magnificent submit, very informative. I’m wondering why the other experts of this sector don’t notice this.
    You should proceed your writing. I’m confident, you’ve a great readers’ base already!

    Have a look at my blog post :: Quyen

  • 10 weitere hilfreiche hinweise // Nov 12, 2017 at 4:28 pm

    Außerdem können wir Ihnen bei ausgesuchten sexy Sets verführerische, passende Strumpfhalter anbieten.

  • 11 ihren kommentar hier // Nov 12, 2017 at 5:59 pm

    Tag des Geotops 2010 , Einführung Geocaching-Routen | 12.

  • 12 moxhoilm // Nov 12, 2017 at 11:58 pm

    Pensar solamente!
    Rexuiz Shooter

  • 13 meine neuesten blog-post // Nov 23, 2017 at 2:56 pm

    , ich war noch Jungfrau, zumindest wenn es der Warte sieht, dass mich noch kein Mann flachgelegt hatte.

  • 14 richtig geiler porno // Dec 11, 2017 at 2:10 pm

    Unser Stammlokal ist Der Stadtheurige Weinstöckl, Villagasse 3.

  • 15 Jordan 11 Gym Red for sale // Dec 13, 2017 at 7:18 am

    yeezy boost 350

  • 16 yeezy boost 350 blue tint for sale // Dec 13, 2017 at 11:51 pm

    Yeezy Boost 350 “Beluga” 2 Cheap Sale

  • 17 Kim // Dec 24, 2017 at 2:08 pm

    Great goods from you, man. I’ve understand your stuff previous to and you are just
    too excellent. I actually like what you have
    acquired here, really like what you’re saying and the way in which you say it.
    You make it entertaining and you still take care of to keep it sensible.
    I can not wait to read much more from you. This is actually a terrific website.

    Also visit my blog post; Kim

  • 18 hobbyhuren hausbesuche // Dec 24, 2017 at 6:22 pm

    00800 beginnen sind für den Anrufer kostenlos erreichbar.

  • 19 untersuchen diese site // Dec 25, 2017 at 2:41 pm

    Ihr Saft lief girl arsch inzwischen direkt meinen Mund, was mich noch heißer machte.

  • 20 hobbyhuren tube // Dec 26, 2017 at 3:55 pm

    Set objitems = objkontaktordner.Items

  • 21 Jamesgew // Jan 3, 2018 at 7:00 pm

    квартира посуточно в балашихе
    балашиха квартира на сутки

  • 22 LgnhJoisse // Jan 5, 2018 at 7:38 pm

    cash advance payday loan cash advance bad credit loans that are not payday loans [url=https://cashzqwadva.org/]cash advance loans[/url]

  • 23 weblink // Jan 7, 2018 at 1:08 pm

    TThis was posted 1 year ago.

  • 24 Aaronpub // Jan 8, 2018 at 7:29 am

    wh0cd238111 found it for you

  • 25 yeezy boost 350 uk buy // Jan 19, 2018 at 12:41 am


  • 26 Air Jordan 11 Win Like 96 Gym Red 2017 Release Date // Jan 19, 2018 at 7:03 am


  • 27 BillyTiz // Jan 23, 2018 at 4:15 am

    wh0cd238111 generic atomoxetine

  • 28 Aaronpub // Feb 10, 2018 at 4:49 am

    wh0cd1032245 doxycycline

  • 29 AnthonyPlant // Feb 20, 2018 at 6:53 am

    That micro-chip posesses a pretty big influence over it doesn’t matter if you will be a winner and even non-winner when it comes to internet poker video tutorial. The fashion in the places you take part in the fingers will also be worthwhile, still, it will be the micro-chip best known a RNG (Well known Assortment Generators) which gives the ability for musician to deal with that wonderful have fun with playing or else botch the likelihood. To spell out, think about electronic poker internet maker as providing Computer system. It`d be wise to do considering that it is precisely what this is. Go through the computer you operate at home or our office. It is set to do given responsibilities. Your apparatus can there be, having said that it takes instructions for you to work. That’sthe reason you put in computer programs. In less than understood variables, isn’t even close to can do well the things you obtain. You are going to single process, let your catch run, and start up another without upsetting procedure clearly cost one. If you ever print in place sms, every day kicks an appropriate material within the design machine, after which they carries on perform the job. The evolution need not choose the actual printer manual is accomplished, similar practice utilizing the electronic poker task. Development is normally designed to develop just about every potential internet poker hand and wrist, routinely. Experts pay attention to within a few minutes or even a working hours. Every day are operating in nanoseconds. From the duration required that you simply request a personally, the computer perhaps have ignored nearly every you possibly can line-up many events.


  • 30 Aaronpub // Feb 26, 2018 at 11:46 pm

    wh0cd1032245 generic elocon

  • 31 male extra review // Mar 7, 2018 at 12:21 am

    Hmm it appears like your website ate my first comment (it was extremely long) so I guess I’ll just sum it up what I wrote and
    say, I’m thoroughly enjoying your blog. I as
    well am an ambitious blogger however I’m
    still new to everything. Do you have any points for
    novice blog writers? I’d surely treasure it.

    Feel free to surf to my web-site :: male extra review

  • 32 best male enhancement supplement // Mar 7, 2018 at 2:34 am

    Well written article! Excellent job, keep up.

    Also visit my blog post best male enhancement supplement

  • 33 KennethImack // Jun 24, 2018 at 9:03 am

    wh0cd64684 ventolin online pharmacy

  • 34 KennethImack // Jun 25, 2018 at 10:45 pm

    wh0cd64684 METFORMIN

  • 35 Bennyopeli // Jun 26, 2018 at 11:13 am

    wh0cd64684 lisinopril for sale

  • 36 KennethImack // Jun 28, 2018 at 8:21 am

    wh0cd64684 best price generic tadalafil

  • 37 www.masturbateur.org // Aug 11, 2018 at 11:40 am

    Er hatte sich zu mir vorgebeugt und spielte ziemlich ungeniert mit seinen Fingern tief meiner Scham.

  • 38 DouglasErync // Aug 12, 2018 at 3:15 am

    wh0cd221959 order amoxil online

  • 39 nygToild // Aug 14, 2018 at 1:18 am

    como es levitra sildenafil para hipertension pulmonar neonatal canada drugs online kamagra gel za zene jans pharmacy canada online pharmacy canada walmart pharmacy marshall mo

  • 40 free web cam sex // Aug 14, 2018 at 9:19 am

    Da waren Sie beim richtigen Thema angekommen .

Leave a Comment