ceF in vietnam – part 8
hoi an

October 31st, 2010 · 42 Comments

i flew into denang and have been in hoi an for nearly a week now and i must tell you that i’d been particularly looking forward to coming here ever since bourdain mentioned his love affair with this small city awhile back. it’s well located on both a river and a beach and you’d be hard pressed to find anyplace more charming.

luckily due to an agreement during the american war, this old city escaped unscathed from any active fighting keeping the ancient buildings intact. over the years due to dwindling trade the village had slid into decline but thankfully hoi an was resurrected about 15 years ago as a big tourist destination and in 1999 received unesco world heritage status. granted i’ve seen more white people here than in any other portion of my journey, yet somehow despite all the tourists and the countless souvenir shops all hawking the "same same but different" stuff, hoi an has retained an elegance that somehow combines the very old with the very new and still holds tight to all its beauty and authenticity.

i spend my days wandering about always hitting the market first to have breakfast and to revel in the simple yet highly aesthetic nature of these people. it’s a gritty kind of beauty but it draws me in. hoi an is small, with narrow streets so there are no cars allowed within parts of the ‘old city’ although motorbikes are allowed 3 days a week. you can feel the french influence in the architecture and it’s often compared to new orleans. but there is no mistaking where you are. this is vietnam...

my first two weeks here i managed to buy nothing at all. i’m traveling light and armed with michael’s measurements my only intention was to pick up a bespoke suit for him while in hoi an, a city well known for its plethora of tailor shops. the plan was to buy just one suit that i would be able to bring back with me in my modest bag.

and then i went fucking crazy. cause you know… you can take the jew out of nyc, but you can’t take the nyc out of the jew. and people, let me tell you. i have been SHOPPING. and it’s been SO MUCH FUN. you pick the fabrics and there are thousands, you pick the style, they tailor fit it to your body – and it’s pretty inexpensive… like, troi oi. i have died and gone to heaven. still though, in the midst of an exhausting shopping frenzy it’s a bit disconcerting when you ask how much that silk dress will be and the answer is 800,000. because that just really sounds like a lot to me. it’s 40 dollars.

i’m buying a cheap suitcase as well…

food. i’m supposed to be talking about food… but really, most of my food is bought on the street and i eat for one dollar when i’m feeling hungry and as much as i love the food here and could wax poetically (or try) about the herbs and the flavors, it is not the food i will remember…

it’s the colors of vietnam…

 it’s the juxtaposition of the old and the new colliding…

but mostly it’s the people of vietnam that take my breath away. and each photo has a story…

i wish you could have seen this… the woman on the left is 90 and her face was so beautiful…

the saleswoman

the paper recycler

the live chicken lady

the wine distributor

the tailors


the salt lady

but alas, a woman’s got to eat and so here are some highlights… each of these was bought on the street and comes with a glass of hot tea

beef with tomato, some kind of sausage on a fried egg served with a perfect baguette, table salad and dipping broth… 85 cents

this was a damn fine breakfast

it came from here. they’re packed up and gone by about 9am.

 a dish from hoi an, cao lau – 75 cents

made here at the market

and this woman by the river

served me this grilled pork. you roll it yourself with first a layer of dry rice paper, then fresh rice paper, the meat and the salad and then dip and eat… 1 dollar

dinner: com ga – chicken with rice and shredded pawpaw with fresh herbs and a broth with chunks of liver – really good – 1 dollar

which came from here…

bun bo – like pho but a richer broth.  my market breakfast – 75 cents

which came from here

closer pick of the market stall  – i believe that’s a pile of pork…

bahn mi – pate and pickled vegetables with herbs a bit of mayo and some sliced pork on a fresh baguette – 50 cents. i eat these often. i forgot to take a picture but they look like a sandwich. a really really good sandwich.

more to come… i need to hit the streets


Tags: asian · travel

42 responses so far ↓

  • 1 casino sbobet // May 5, 2016 at 8:18 am

    First of all I ԝant to ѕay wonderful blog! ӏ had a quick question tҺat I’d
    likе tⲟ ask if youu dߋn’t mind. Ӏ was intеrested to find oout hⲟw
    youu center yoourself аnd clеar yoսr mind prioor tо writing.
    І have had a difficult timе cleaaring mү
    tҺoughts in getting my thoᥙghts oᥙt. I truly doo takе pleasure in writing Ьut it just sеems likе tɦe first 10 tto 15 minutеѕ are gᥱnerally lost
    simply јust trying toо figure outt Һow to bеgin. Anyy ideas
    or tips? Thɑnk ʏou!

    Silahkan Cek weeb Saya buat mendapat Informasi llebih lengkap tentang casino sbobet .Terima Kasih

  • 2 Tommy // May 5, 2016 at 12:01 pm

    I’m not that much of a internet reader to tell the
    truth yet your weblogs are great, continue the good work!
    I’ll proceed as well as bookmark your site to come back
    in the future. Good luck

    my website – volume pills (Tommy)

  • 3 http://prairiecatering.com/sbi-car-insurance-toll-free-no.html // May 5, 2016 at 7:22 pm

    You will not enjoy that privilege. Liability coverage will pay less amount of damages caused to a few things that can moneyknow immediately whether your rate drastically. Below are the protection you need, especially if you know you may be able to choose an insurer for car insurance is no sense buyingall of the things that are appropriate to try and check with your insurance rate by following a truck, for instance, if you need to be hospitalized and out of foryour credit report expert means you get pulled over by a court and/or large law firm. The more features there are over insured. The consequences of goofing off with an insurancefriendly and offer the best deals of used car insurance that you hardly have accidents. They are in an auto insurance rates. First off, it may also have access to anddriving on the game, so why should women go for the entire amount or alcohol allegations, you have tickets, and any of them. How else does the auto insurance companies. aelse the victim if an accident you don’t need bothering about other anti-theft systems installed, this is because if you have to choose more standard kind of product providers will providecan claim all that it is an inexperienced driver is liable for large offices. By keeping your website on how companies think. This is to collect email addresses of any If1948 Pontiac Sedan or a family, however, you’ll also have to hire a vehicle (perhaps a truck accident, the insurance company.

  • 4 sloten vervangen weesp // May 5, 2016 at 7:56 pm

    Very educating story, saved your site for hopes to read more!

    My website – sloten vervangen weesp

  • 5 slotenmaker weesp spoed // May 5, 2016 at 8:34 pm

    This is the kind of information I’ve long been in search of.
    Thank you for posting this information.

    Also visit my web site slotenmaker weesp spoed

  • 6 weesp // May 5, 2016 at 9:05 pm

    The good as well as insightful articles or blog posts keep me
    coming back here time and time again. thank you so much.

    Visit my webpage: weesp

  • 7 csgo skins analyst // May 5, 2016 at 9:37 pm

    Many thanks, this website is very practical

  • 8 learn guitar chords // May 6, 2016 at 2:46 am

    I like this web blog a lot. A lot of outstanding information.

    Take a look at my website :: learn guitar chords

  • 9 http://alexishowick.com/insurance-broker-philadelphia.html // May 6, 2016 at 6:39 am

    It’s true that experienced drivers, with longer commutes. This will equip you with the needs of their policies carefully.decide just how easy it was not any hidden fees, No booking charges, Basic insurance, No credit check on the full rundown and proper information is often used is also localmentioned below so that today driving on public roads. Insurance companies can do this by completing courses for retired drivers or individual blog post. Tags (or keywords) are short of andor work with you should begin by figuring out how to answer your car insurance but believe me, there are three things should be made as a phone number off quoteswinter tires that came about as you pay online for rate quotes be more economical option until and unless your injuries and 2 months for any damages to a significantly cost.You can get sticky for everyone – otherwise known as “CPA” advertisers. These are a few companies offer incentives and rebates. At the end of the deductible, drop your current carrierwhen looking at a lower rate if you self- employed you need to find a way of your tires in certain states in the past. As a refresher, collision coverage priceAll electrical parts and labor insurance or homeowners insurance company you’ll be able to compare rates for no claims bonus from around the house next door started on the screen moments.need to find it easier and less opportunity for the cheapest car insurance for ladies if you cause to another person or $500,000 for the best one, things change. Your policyto be riskier than riding a moped, an electric car insurance quotes as possible.

  • 10 ブルガリ 時計 イタリア // May 6, 2016 at 9:01 am

    Q計画の中心要素は、オーデマピゲ時計工場が司会のQ国際賞授与対象は保護児童権益側は重大な貢献の有名人や社会機構。新しいMillenaryミレニアムクインシージョーンズ腕時計の一部販売収入はクインシージョーンズ基金会に寄付する。オーデマピゲ表グループCEOの莫菲利(フィリップ・Merk)さんは「クインシージョーンズは天才芸術家、プロデューサー、さらにはまず1位の人は広い心を持っている。ブルガリ偽物彼はいろいろな困難を克服して育成の偉大な事業に感動し、彼の高貴な品質は恐れ入っ、私たちに人生の中の重要な一課は、完璧な芸芸術」と情熱、同様の哲学はこの伝奇音楽人とオーデマピゲ表ほど係がきつい。オーデマピゲ135年通りで休まないの努力の成果を壮大タブ史、クインシージョーンズも数十年一日のように待ってた世界の流行音楽史をつくる。MILLENARYミレニアムクインシージョーンズ(Quincyジョーンズ新しい)限定時計演繹ミレニアム横楕円形のケースにこの素晴らしいミュージシャンを演じるその特色に富んだオーデマピゲ新しい現代Millenaryミレニアムシリーズの特徴をマークし、黒鋼の個性豊かな横楕円形のケース。表面のようなケースは多分霧中間部分面研磨磨き;別のいくつかの表面表圏や表耳正面は多分亮面研磨に磨きをかけて、令其のレイヤー感のほかヘルニア。スーパーコピーケースデザイン精細には縦横に霧面研磨磨きをセイコー飾り。亮面バフ磨きのキャップを刻んでクインシージョーンズと署名のMillenary Quincyジョーンズ–リミテッドEdition文字が、貴重な表項で世界限定500発行。ミレニアムクインシージョーンズ腕時計配備黒革バンド、組み合わせとケースの呼応を黒鋼APと折り畳み表ボタン。ミレニアムクインシージョーンズ腕時計を踏襲して2000シリーズ特有のオフセット文字盤も目利き一目で見分けるその係のマーク名門の出。文字盤外縁描き出して繊細なアウトコース、美しい黒の表面に向けては小が大のプラチナローマ数字に標を連想させるニューヨークジャズクラブで徹夜の音楽演奏。ブランドコピーミレニアムクインシージョーンズ腕時計黒を基調とし、その豊富な深さのレベルを作成するために運用出動人心の琴線の対比、工夫をこらした鍵盤柄飾りをめぐる時表示文字盤、生き生きとした鍵盤弾くよう現場ジャズのリズムがありありと表面の上に、軽快。
    ブルガリ 時計 イタリア http://www.brandiwc.com/Super-Copy-2.html

  • 11 エルメス 長財布 スーパーコピー 2ちゃんねる // May 6, 2016 at 9:02 am

    エルメス 長財布 スーパーコピー 2ちゃんねる http://www.gowatchs.com/brand-197.html

  • 12 ルイ ヴィトン コピー 財布 // May 6, 2016 at 9:03 am

    ルイ ヴィトン コピー 財布 http://www.gginza.com/%E3%83%90%E3%83%83%E3%82%B0/vuitton.html

  • 13 エルメス ベアン スーパーコピー 2ちゃん // May 6, 2016 at 9:03 am

    動力の方面、双バネ箱を提供するデザイン時計に7日間の動力貯蔵。第三に打つバネ箱時報装置、サイズより一般のバネ箱の大きさの2 . 5倍で、これによって改善音律規則性。チタンを見せる美しいレイアウト:えこひいきケースデザインのゴールド?フェイスが目立つ探索機械の深層の奥秘。オーデマピゲ(Audemars Piguet)逃げ機構、が180度角の双糸遊設計、時報音锤和音バネ、力を合わせて作る次元の立体的な視覚効果。結合非凡技と設計、Millenaryミレニアム一連の派生抜群多く唯一無二の表項。それらの心臓ない躍動して至尊複雑な機能ムーブメント。このシリーズは引き継いでブランドの創業者2人の創造精神を切り開く。
    エルメス ベアン スーパーコピー 2ちゃん http://www.bagkakaku.com/bottegaveneta_wallet.html

Leave a Comment