weatherwise, nashville autumns can be a mixed bag. last week it was in the mid 70’s going down to the low 40’s at night – and today it was 83 and glorious. during this schizophrenic transition into cool weather and comfort foods, sometimes it can be hard to get a handle on ‘seasonal’ eating. but i had some d’artagnan buffalo short ribs burning a hole in my freezer, and awhile back i’d run across this recipe, somehow, somewhere, on someone’s blog – perhaps even a year ago – and i bookmarked it.
so when i was clicking through my favorites – the recipes all meticulously categorized, and fell across this one, i thought – perfect. and then when i saw that it was a giada/food network dish, i threw up a little in my mouth. ok not really, it was more of a gag – ok, maybe not even that. but i definitely cringed. i mean, i was hoping for batali, even emeril would do, but when i saw who it was i realized that i’d have to actually tell you, my dear readers,that: i would be making a ‘giada everyday italian’ dish. i mean, it’s not like it was that yummo chick or that woman who resides in my own personal version of hell – but still… i don’t do giada. well, i didn’t.
this dish was a homerun. it was earthy and complex, and even surprised me just how well and how fast it came together. but best of all, it was not only all those thinga but it was pasta…
the bittersweet chocolate shavings at the very end send an already excellent dish to another dimension. i’ve done this for years on pumpkin ravioli’s with browned butter and sage…
buffalo short ribs with tagliarelle
adapted from giata de laurentiis everyday italian
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces chopped pancetta
2 pounds short ribs
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 medium onion, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1/2 cup fresh parsley leaves
2 cloves garlic
1 (14-ounce) can tomatoes (whole or diced)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1 bay leaf
2 1/2 cups veal stock
1 cup red wine
1 pound fresh or dried tagliarelle
about 3 tablespoons shaved bittersweet chocolate
place the olive oil in a large heavy soup pot over medium heat. cook the pancetta until golden and crisp, about 4 minutes. meanwhile, season the short ribs with salt and pepper, and dredge in the flour. using a slotted spoon, remove the pancetta from the pan and set aside. add the short ribs to the pan and brown on all sides, about 7 minutes total.
meanwhile, combine the onion, carrot, parsley and garlic in a food processor and blend until finely minced. then add the tomatoes and tomato paste and pulse.
once the short ribs are browned, carefully add the mixture from the food processor to the pot. return the pancetta to the pot and stir. add the rosemary, thyme, oregano, bay leaf, beef broth, and wine. bring the mixture to a boil. reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour and 15 minutes. remove the lid and simmer for another hour and a half, stirring occasionally. remove the meat and bones from the pot. discard the bones. shred the meat and return it to the pot. season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 3/4 teaspoon pepper, or to taste.
bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. add the pasta and cook until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, about 8 to 10 minutes for dried pasta and 2 to 3 minutes for fresh. drain pasta, reserving 1 cup of cooking liquid. add pasta to the pot and stir to combine. add reserved pasta liquid 1/4 cup at a time, if needed, to moisten the pasta. transfer to serving bowls, top each bowl with about 2 teaspoons of chocolate shavings. serve immediately.
so ok, i’m having issues with the heritage of this dish. but giada is ok. really. totally not offensive. and the woman can actually cook…
it’s just well, ok, nevermind.