in keeping with my ‘eating down the house‘ challenge, the only ingredient that i needed for last night’s dinner was some cream, something that i rarely if ever buy or cook with - if only out of a healthy dose of fear. but i had perused my freezer, fridge and pantry and had a pretty solid idea of what direction i’d be heading. i reached for the frozen niman ranch sweet italian sausage, the opened can of tomato paste and the leftover fresh thyme from last weekend.
but the plan was sealed when i spotted the small but coveted bag of dried morels and another of porcinis tucked away in a corner top shelf of my freezer, leftovers from a bulk buy i’d made from earthy’s. i hesitate to say it, but i figured i’d been hanging on to them for at least three years now and their well overdo time had finally come. i’m sure their three frigid trips around the sun wasn’t working in their favor but i was hopeful that they’d still pack that smoky rich and fragrant punch that i love so much. (later, when i checked the current price of dried morel’s my jaw literally dropped.)
so then i’m at the store facing this wall of orderly bottles and cartons. the assorted dairy soldiers are all lined up in colorful uniform, standing at attention armed with various counts of deadly fat grams. and i come to the sober realization after reading the nutritional labels and doing the math that the very small box of fat laden heavy cream was just not going to pass through either my front door - or my lips. there had to be a line drawn. and by god, this was it. i grabbed the organic half and half and feeling only vaguely better about my choice, headed for the checkout line with a nagging suspicion that no one ever cooks with half and half. half and half, it’s what’s in your coffee. half and half, the name itself feels so non-committal.
(the dried morel and porcini mushrooms)
early in the evening when i began to assemble all the elements, i knew a red wine would be in order, most of it to be sacrificed to the sauce. the only thing i currently had in stock that was sacrificable was an ’03 clos du bois cabernet. a bit nicer than my usual cooking wine, but i salvaged one big glass for me and offered up the rest to the bolognese gods. (note to self: buy wine for cooking.)
(the mushrooms rehydrated)
i began by soaking the mushrooms in warm water. then i sauteed onions in some olive oil and added the sausage meat. next i poured in the wine and cooked it down to perhaps a half cup of liquid. then i added the chopped rehydrated mushrooms along with most of a can of tomato paste. the fresh thyme was de-stemmed and a big fistful was added to the pan along with salt and a generous helping of coarsely ground black pepper. finally in went some half and half and while i carefully brought the heat back up and the sauce began to thicken, i thinned it all down with the reserved and carefully strained mushroom soaking water.
at about that time, angela called and i offered for her to come by and pick up some dinner for her and bruce. they got the half unused bag of strozzapreti (literal translation: priest choker) and a tupperware of the just finished sauce. i was thrilled to not have leftovers – and to be able to feed my friends.
it was a heavy meal, no doubt. but the fat content was considerably lower than it might have been had i not had the sane concept of substituting for what was the ‘better, richer’ ingredient. heavy cream, we did not miss you.
eating down the house – to be continued…
11 responses so far ↓
1 Lauren // Oct 26, 2007 at 8:06 am
I’m not a huge fan of dishes with mushrooms as the main ingredient, but that looks incredible. And, now I’m hungry for dinner at 9AM.
2 ponyboat // Oct 26, 2007 at 10:13 am
Mmm I love morels! Having a stash of dried ones is great when you crave them in one of the three seasons that is not spring. This dish looks moist, meaty and delicious!
3 fluffernutter // Oct 26, 2007 at 10:16 am
Those mushrooms! Look at them all! What a stash — I think I might faint!
4 Meg // Oct 26, 2007 at 10:53 am
That looks fantastic. I’m assuming that once you cook the pantry down a bit, that if you’re left with seaweed, a can of garbanzo beans, lemon olive oil and kimchi that you’ve given yourself permission to restock?
5 Jennifer Hess // Oct 26, 2007 at 10:56 am
I think I know just what I’m going to do with that bag of strozzapreti that has been lingering in the pantry…
6 Klinde // Oct 26, 2007 at 11:21 am
I am drooling over here!
7 cookiecrumb // Oct 26, 2007 at 5:08 pm
I hear ya on the cream, but it has become essential at my house (as I replied to you over at my blog). Don’t use tons. Or not. Don’t use any. I respect your choices.
And. The strozzapreti? It’s preti!!!
Good one.
8 annie // Oct 26, 2007 at 6:19 pm
Good Lord that looks good. Several comments:
1. You are a brave, brave woman to face down that cream. You are my hero for that.
2. I have never, ever heard of strozzapreti so I learned something (and have something new to hunt and covet)
3. You have far better things in your cupboard than I do. I find things like single envelopes of Lipton Onion Soup Mix from before I converted to “serious cooking,” and bottles with two drops of Liquid Smoke.
9 claudia // Oct 26, 2007 at 8:39 pm
lauren – you never were a mushroom girl, from way back…
pony – tres meaty. really good food. morels are so delicious – and i love porcini’s too.
fluff – no more. all gone!
meg – you nailed it on all but the kimchi…
jen – i’ll be watching you…
klinde – it’s so easy to make stuff like this! you gotta do it sometime. give your german man some italian
cookie – i am sure you are much much thinner than meeeeeeeeeeeee…
annie – cream is truly the enemy. damnit. and there are soooooo very many pasta’s out there that are strange and wonderfully shaped. it’s fun. my cupboard is like a mini dean & deluca. like my bedroom closet i often look in and wish i could trade it all in for full retail/purchase value… i’d be in barcelona this spring for sure!
10 janelle // Oct 26, 2007 at 11:31 pm
Eh, I hope it was a really BIG glass of wine:).
AND I totally cook with half and half! Did you notice terribly, the difference? I make my alfredo with half and half… I bet it was awesome…
Pasta season!
11 shannon // Oct 29, 2007 at 8:06 pm
“half and half…. so non-committal”
you crack me up.
i’m very jealous of ang and bruces’ address
right now….
digging your blog picture
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