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	<title>cook eat FRET &#187; pork</title>
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		<title>new year&#8217;s eve bruschetta</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/pork/2010/01/07/new-years-eve-bruschetta/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/pork/2010/01/07/new-years-eve-bruschetta/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 Jan 2010 20:35:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[bread]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/?p=2941</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[i made a fair few things new year&#8217;s eve, but two of them in particular were really wonderful. this, a bruschetta made from a whole wheat la brea baguette with a gremolata of parsley, lemon zest, tuscan olive oil and garlic, topped with two paper thin slightly pan warmed slices of guanciale &#8211; was quite [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img width="495" height="322" alt="" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/bruschetta2.jpg" /></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">i made a fair few things new year&#8217;s eve, but two of them in particular were really wonderful. this, a bruschetta made from a whole wheat </span><a href="http://www.labreabakery.com/productC.aspx?c=1"><span style="font-size: small;">la brea</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> baguette with a gremolata of parsley, lemon zest, tuscan olive oil and garlic, topped with two paper thin slightly pan warmed slices of guanciale &#8211; was quite simply, delicious.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">alas, the idea was once again gently borrowed from &#8216;<a href="http://cityhousenashville.com/">city house</a>&#8216; here in nashville. chef tandy wilson&#8217;s version was slightly different, but the basic elements were much the same.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"><span id="more-2941"></span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">nearly every dish has a story, and this one begins at </span><a href="http://www.lazzaroli.com/"><span style="font-size: small;">lazzaroli&#8217;s</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> here in the germantown neighborhood of nashville. tom is my savior in this town, a purveyor of all good things italian. i cannot stress highly enough how excellent his shop is. if you live in the nashville area and haven&#8217;t yet been, add it to your list of resolutions to go and check out this alluring little market. the guanciale he carries is from the renowned </span><a href="http://www.salumicuredmeats.com/"><span style="font-size: small;">salumi</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> in seattle. nashville may be culturally backwards and lacking in way too many things food related, but let me ask you this? can you get artisan cured meats in your little corner of the universe? because hey, guess what? I CAN!</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">(i&#8217;ve tried <a href="http://www.laquercia.us/">la quercia</a> numerous times via mail order, but <a href="http://www.salumicuredmeats.com/">salumi</a> gets my vote &#8211; hands down and for half the price.)</span></p>
<p><img width="495" height="329" alt="" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/bruschetta close.jpg" /></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">so i bought a piece of the guanciale but then had to deal with the business of getting it sliced paper thin. luckily, my local deli counter at &#8216;the fresh market&#8217; was willing to do it for me in exchange for a taste &#8211; the quintessential win/win.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">the fresh bread options in this town are at best, ok. i find myself prefering the &#8216;la brea&#8217; offerings from the harris teeter grocery store. i like it better than most any of the other local options. it&#8217;s made in california and then baked in store. i probably wouldn&#8217;t have chosen the whole wheat version, but it&#8217;s all that was left at 6 pm on new year&#8217;s eve and somehow it was just right. the carbon footprint? major fail. i&#8217;m sorry planet earth. love you, mean it.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">i got a bit lazy and didn&#8217;t even bother to toast the bread slices. i just schmeared on some of the gremolata, quasi-artfully placed the pork &#8211; and, ecco! </span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">happy new year&#8230; it&#8217;s a brand new decade. i&#8217;m ready.</span></p>
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		<slash:comments>17</slash:comments>
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		<title>balthazar&#8217;s braised beef ribs</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/beef/2009/11/11/balthazars-braised-beef-ribs/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/beef/2009/11/11/balthazars-braised-beef-ribs/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:50:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[beef]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/?p=2766</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&#160; has it been 7 weeks? my god, how have you been? and look, you&#8217;ve come back to see me, even after all this time. i am both grateful and humbled and i have A LOT to tell you. but i&#8217;m going to take it one post at a time so as not to bombard [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img width="495" height="372" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/pan o meat.JPG" alt="" /></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div id="refHTML"><span style="font-size: small;">has it been 7 weeks? my god, how have you been? and look, you&#8217;ve come back to see me, even after all this time. i am both grateful and humbled and i have A LOT to tell you. but i&#8217;m going to take it one post at a time so as not to bombard you with too much. anyway, let&#8217;s just call this my hiatus &#8211; my extended autumn break. i never meant to be away this long. but see? that&#8217;s life. one day you&#8217;re 23 with amazing thighs and then you wake up 25 years later and well, you&#8217;re me. but i&#8217;m really not complaining. because i&#8217;ve been having a grand time.&nbsp;this life i lead is bonafide &quot;charmed&quot; and if i were 15 (ok, 20) (ok 30) pounds thinner, everything would be perfect, and no one could so much as bear being around me. so perhaps my extra padding is the great equalizer. or something. </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>(FRETTING already&#8230;)</i></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">&nbsp;</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">so where do i begin? i spent a good part of yesterday compiling photos from no less than four different cameras (my nikon slr, my point and shoot, iphone AND a cvs drugstore disposable little number) where i vaguely attempted to chronicle my recent excursions to seattle, nyc, atlanta and florida, along with my last 4 day catering gig, as well as a few various dishes of my own&nbsp;that i somehow bothered to photograph. as of late, so much of my cooking hasn&#8217;t even been documented. and i must tell you that it has been somewhat of a relief &#8211; to just cook something wonderful, serve it and then eat it while it&#8217;s still hot. you know, like regular people do&#8230;</span></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;"><span id="more-2766"></span></span></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;"><img width="495" height="292" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/raw shortribs.jpg" alt="" /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">&nbsp;</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">as a re-entry post,&nbsp;i thought i&#8217;d hit you with some short ribs. when i perused the ingredient list of this recipe, it appeared simply undeniable. chris widick was pretty much at the helm of this dish &#8211; the centerpiece of a kick-off dinner of what was about to be 6 major meals in a row over the course of 72 hours. i was running around shopping for the last of the ingredients and chris was left to his own devices. as usual he had his way with the meat and the final result was flawless, served over some slow cooked polenta with braised brussels sprouts on the side. i had chris triple the recipe and from the leftovers had a grand dinner party last week serving the ribs alongside a braised (also local) rabbit dish with lots of pancetta, fresh sage, rosemary and white wine.. damn fine.<br />
</span></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;"><img width="495" height="372" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/P1000524.JPG" alt="" /></span></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">these pretty ribs were from emerald glen, a farm not too far from here in munfordville, kentucky. i am sometimes skeptical of the local beef but really, these ribs &#8211; from grass finished red devon herds, </span><span style="font-size: small;">were very good</span><span style="font-size: small;">. and more than anything, i&#8217;m just proud to buy meat from weldon hawkins, an 8th generation farmer working the same 110 acres that his great great great great great grandfather (holy shit) did. weldon&#8217;s poultry and eggs are as good as it gets and i&#8217;m a fan of his pork too. so even though i am the mail order queen, when given a fine local source i am truly delighted to support it.<br />
</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">&nbsp;</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">i haven&#8217;t got a photo of the finished product. i must tell you that when there are 4 people trying to plate hot food for 12, things move too quickly &#8211; and really i just would have been in the way. i swing a VERY wide path &#8211; for too many reasons to mention&#8230;</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">&nbsp;</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;"><b>balthazar&#8217;s braised beef ribs</b></span></div>
<div><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Balthazar-Cookbook-Keith-McNally/dp/1400046351/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;s=books&amp;qid=1257903202&amp;sr=8-1"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>the balthazar cookbook</i></span></a><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">&nbsp;</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">6 short rib of beef (5 to 7 pounds)<br />
2 sprigs rosemary<br />
6 sprigs thyme<br />
1 bay leaf<br />
1 stalk celery, halved<br />
3 teaspoons kosher salt<br />
2 teaspoons fresh coarse ground black pepper<br />
3 tablespoons vegetable oil<br />
3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces<br />
1 medium onion, roughly chopped<br />
4 shallots, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick<br />
5 garlic cloves, peeled and halved<br />
3 tablespoons tomato paste<br />
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour<br />
1/2 cup ruby port<br />
4 cups full-bodied wine, such as cabernet sauvignon<br />
6 cups veal stock (veal stock is really best but you can substitute good homemade beef stock)</p>
<p>1. preheat the oven to 325&deg;F<br />
2. bind each rib with cotton kitchen twine. place the rosemary, thyme, and bay leaf between the two celery halves and bind with kitchen twine.<br />
3. season the short ribs with 2 teaspoons of the salt and the pepper.<br />
4. heat the oil in a large dutch oven over a high flame until it smokes.<br />
5. in two batches, brown the short ribs well on both sides, about 3 minutes per side, pouring off all but 3 tablespoons of oil between batches.<br />
6. remove the ribs and set aside when done.<br />
7. lower the flame to medium, and add the carrots, onion, shallots, and garlic to the pot and saut&eacute; for 5 minutes, until the onion is soft and light brown.<br />
8. stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes.<br />
9. add the flour and stir well to combine. add the port, red wine, and the celery-herb bundle.<br />
10. raise the flame to high and cook until the liquid is reduced by a third, about 20 minutes.<br />
11. return the ribs to the pot (they will stack into two layers).<br />
12. add the stock and the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt; if the stock doesn&rsquo;t cover the ribs by at least 1 inch, add water up to that level.<br />
13. bring to a gentle simmer, cover, transfer to the preheated oven, and cook for 3 hours. visit the pot occasionally and stir the ribs, bringing the ones on the bottom up to the top &#8212; they&rsquo;re done when the meat is fork tender and falling off the bone.<br />
14. transfer the ribs to a large platter and remove the strings.<br />
15. skim fat from the surface of the sauce, and then strain through a sieve into a medium saucepan.<br />
16. discard the solids.<br />
17. over medium heat, bring the sauce to a strong simmer and reduce the liquid until slightly less then half (4 cups) remains, about 1 hour.</p>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">this recipe is as classic a short rib recipe as there could ever be. the finished sauce is deep and rich &#8211; almost silken. and the beauty of these braised dishes is that although they may be a bit time consuming, they really are incredibly easy -&nbsp; and if one is so inclined, can stand a good deal of tweaking, leaving room for your own personal experimentation. </p>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">but like with julia&#8217;s boeuf bourguignon, there are certain instances where the classic is all you could ever wish for and that is when i tend to just happily follow along.</span>..</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">ok- one last thing for now&#8230; </span><span style="font-size: small;">i did want to share with you the menus that we served over the course of the seminar held early last month:</span></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><img width="495" height="217" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/nutmegcakeseminar(1).jpg" alt="" /></div>
<div>&nbsp;<i>a little 4 pm pick me up&#8230; <a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/baking/2008/10/13/nutmeg-dusted-bittersweet-chocolate-cake/">nutmeg dusted bittersweet chocolate cake </a></i></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">bruschetta :&nbsp; tomato, basil, olive oil / kale, garlic, red pepper flakes / white bean, red wine and rosemary<br />
papardelle with roasted butternut and acorn squash cooked in chicken stock and drizzled with very brown butter,&nbsp;crisped sage and grated dark chocolate<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Balthazar-Cookbook-Keith-McNally/dp/1400046351/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;s=books&amp;qid=1257965807&amp;sr=1-1">balthazar&#8217;s short ribs</a> with <a href="http://markethallfoods.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_mh_info&amp;products_id=263">polenta</a> and <a href="http://orangette.blogspot.com/2006/12/best-thing-since-brussels-sprouts.html">braised brussels sprouts</a><br />
affogado: vanilla gelato, espresso<br />
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<br />
pizza : tallegio, chanterelles, truffle oil / fontina, mozzarella, tomato sauce / sausage, rapini, garlic, pecorino<br />
caesar salad w/ frico crisps<br />
<a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/baking/2008/10/13/nutmeg-dusted-bittersweet-chocolate-cake/">nutmeg bittersweet chocolate cake</a><br />
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Cooking-Hand-Paul-Bertolli/dp/0609608932/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;s=books&amp;qid=1257965768&amp;sr=1-1">paul bertolli&#8217;s percatelli al&#8217;amatraciana</a><br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Jamies-Italy-Jamie-Oliver/dp/1401301959/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;s=books&amp;qid=1257965629&amp;sr=1-7">jamie oliver&#8217;s</a> <a href="http://www.heritagepork.com/product/34146-0">porchetta</a> &#8211; with cherry espresso agrodulce on the side<br />
<a href="http://markethallfoods.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_mh_info&amp;products_id=92">farro</a> salad &#8211; with roasted carrots, chili, parsley, olive oil, salt, pepper<br />
orangette&#8217;s <a href="http://orangette.blogspot.com/2008/01/pots-of-gold.html">butterscotch budino</a><br />
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<br />
<a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/pasta/2009/05/27/pasta-ceci/">pasta ceci</a><br />
mixed greens<br />
rosemary, garlic, black pepper flatbread<br />
smitten kitchen&#8217;s <a href="http://smittenkitchen.com/2008/09/moms-apple-cake/">apple cake</a><br />
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<br />
<a href="http://ranchogordo.com/">cannellini beans</a> with arugula, grape tomatoes, oregano, garlic, lemon, anchovy<br />
<a href="http://www.emeraldglenfarm.com/index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=article&amp;id=50&amp;Itemid=58">roast chickens</a> on a bed of rainbow chard with shallots<br />
a gremolata of toasted pine nuts, garlic, lemon zest and flat leaf parsley<br />
roasted potatoes: salt, olive oil, thyme<br />
<a href="http://heidirobb.com/2008/03/the-tiramisu-that-launched-a-blog/">tiramisu</a><br />
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<br />
pesto <a href="http://markethallfoods.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_mh_info&amp;cPath=1_48_81&amp;products_id=223">cencioni</a> with grilled shrimp<br />
pork scallopine with a salad of shaved fennel, red onion, romaine, capers, lemon zest and juice<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/A16-Food-Wine-Nate-Appleman/dp/1580089070/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;s=books&amp;qid=1257965477&amp;sr=1-1">A16&#8242;s pear zabaglione</a></span></div>
<div>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">everyone left 5 lbs heavier with a smile on their face. we do it all again in march, june and october &#8217;10.<br />
</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;">it&#8217;s quite the ride&#8230; </span></div>
<p><!--Session data--><!--Session data--></span></div>
<p></span></div>
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		<item>
		<title>shrimp and guanciale</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/vegetables/2009/08/31/shrimp-and-guanciale/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/vegetables/2009/08/31/shrimp-and-guanciale/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2009 20:38:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[seafood]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegetables]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/?p=2690</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[heirloom tomato, zucchini, grilled louisiana shrimp, guanciale and torn basil with sauteed arugula global cooling. or at least it feels that way. the weather here in nashville is struggling to hit 80, and that pretty much means that it&#8217;s just plain glorious. temperate and sunny, this including the days just past and the rest of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img width="495" height="328" alt="" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/winging it.jpg" /></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"><i>heirloom tomato, zucchini, grilled louisiana shrimp, guanciale and torn basil with sauteed arugula</i></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">global cooling. or at least it feels that way. the weather here in nashville is struggling to hit 80, and that pretty much means that it&#8217;s just plain glorious. temperate and sunny, this including the days just past and the rest of the week to come. since on any other given year it could easily be 90+, this is what you wish &#8211; no, pray for &#8211; to the god of all things good.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">and even though it&#8217;s the last days of august here in the deep south, the tomatoes are still extraordinary &#8211; and the zucchini is as overly prolific as usual. so i threw together a simple summer dinner using gulf shrimp and just a touch of </span><a href="http://www.laquercia.us/"><span style="font-size: small;">la quercia</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> guanciale, because i am a very enthusiastic fan of the jowl, choosing it over pancetta time and time again. it&#8217;s just well, porkier. AND WHEN HAS THAT EVER BEEN A BAD THING?</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">but there was a crisis&#8230; a culinary disaster of the very worst kind&#8230;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"><span id="more-2690"></span>you know how when you decide to sprinkle a touch of red crushed chile peppers from the bottle and you&#8217;re talking to your friends and not paying close attention to what you&#8217;re doing and you unscrew the cap and shake&#8230; AND THE ENTIRE CONTENTS EMPTIES INTO YOUR PAN? well, i did that. but thankfully, my friend rick heard me scream and came flying to the rescue and was <b>on it</b>. we quickly removed as much of the pepper as we could. he carefully rinsed off the dangerously smothered zucchini and tomatoes while i chopped more vegetables to try and spread out the heat a bit&#8230; and really? perhaps in the end it was slightly warmer than i&#8217;d have wished for &#8211; but it wasn&#8217;t too bad at all &#8211; it was even kinda verydamngood. plus it was a cool evening, so, PERFECT!</span></p>
<p><img width="495" height="304" alt="" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/wing it 3 close.jpg" /></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">i got lucky.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">this is my kind of cooking. just winging it, using the best of what&#8217;s available. i thought about adding roasted peppers but it was just one more flavor that although would have worked, was unnecessary and i believe in the end would have detracted from the dish.<br />
</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">and so i am forever learning this&#8230; that if you have what is already perfect, do the least amount to it and then appreciate it for what it is. for awhile now the food i enjoy the most is an interesting combination of a small number of high quality ingredients.</span></p>
<p>amen.</p>
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		<slash:comments>22</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>capping off a bohemian loaf</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/salad/2009/06/20/capping-off-a-bohemian-loaf/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/salad/2009/06/20/capping-off-a-bohemian-loaf/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Jun 2009 20:19:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[bread]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cheese]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[eggs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[salad]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/?p=2504</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[poached egg sitting on a caesar salad with bottarga&#8230; grilled fresh mozzarella with crisped speck and basil&#8230; and for the foundation of this fine dinner, may i introduce to you the 3 seeded bohemian loaf &#8211; courtesy of twin fork farms artisan bread. it&#8217;s a dense &#8211; but not too dense, chewy slice of bread [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-size: small;"><img height="328" width="495" alt="" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/poached egg on toast with bottarga.jpg" /></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">poached egg sitting on a caesar salad with bottarga&#8230;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"><img height="328" width="495" alt="speck" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/mozz and speck2(1).jpg" /></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">grilled fresh mozzarella with crisped speck and basil&#8230;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"><span id="more-2504"></span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"><img height="331" width="495" alt="" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/bohemian bread.jpg" /></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">and for the foundation of this fine dinner, may i introduce to you the 3 seeded bohemian loaf &#8211; courtesy of </span><a href="http://www.twinforksfarm.com/"><span style="font-size: small;">twin fork farms artisan bread</span></a><span style="font-size: small;">.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">it&#8217;s a dense &#8211; but not too dense, chewy slice of bread made from: whole wheat flour, unbleached flour, natural sourdough leaven, sunflower, sesame and flax seeds and salt. all the bread undergoes a long fermentation process which supposedly has a list of advantages, none of which i fully understand, but all sound positively healthful. i had read that for awhile these beautiful orbs were baked in a little beehive oven in david tannen&#8217;s backyard, just four at a time but that a bigger oven has since been built, and he&#8217;s now churning out about 300 loaves a day. i&#8217;m usually not much of a sourdough fan, but this is wonderful bread and i always try and keep a loaf in my freezer.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">we&#8217;d planned on dinner out last night but the heat has set in to the tune of intolerable. high 90&#8242;s + the heat index = over 100 degrees. and really, i&#8217;m just not an extreme weather kinda gal. so with a house full of odds and ends and little need for much in the way of imagination, this was dinner. a caesar &#8211; of sorts, along with a &#8211; kind of, grilled ham and cheese&#8230;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">it always amazes me what you can come up with just by poking around&#8230;</span></p>
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		<slash:comments>24</slash:comments>
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		<title>sweet potato with king oyster mushrooms, guanciale and a poached egg</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/eggs/2008/11/14/sweet-potato-with-king-oyster-mushrooms-guanciale-and-a-poached-egg/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/eggs/2008/11/14/sweet-potato-with-king-oyster-mushrooms-guanciale-and-a-poached-egg/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Nov 2008 07:46:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[eggs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mushrooms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[potatoes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[balsamic cream]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[king oyster mushrooms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[poached egg on top]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[salumi]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sweet potato filling]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/?p=1475</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[i realize the name of this dish probably&#160;sounds a bit random and that the picture is not helping. but let me explain&#8230; this past week there have been 2 cooking classes held in my home with 16 students in total. the topic was handmade pasta and well, it really was a lot of fun. we [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-size: small"><img height="322" alt="" width="495" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/swwtpot1.jpg" /></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small">i realize the name of this dish probably&nbsp;sounds a bit random and that the picture is <i>not</i> helping. but let me explain&#8230;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small"><span id="more-1475"></span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small">this past week there have been 2 cooking classes held in my home with 16 students in total. the topic was handmade pasta and well, it really was a lot of fun. we made 3 dishes &#8211; a sweet potato tortellini, <a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/pasta/2008/05/03/batalis-fettuccine-with-oyster-mushrooms/">batali&#8217;s fettuccine capricciose</a> and the roman classic, amatraciana with an extruded bucatini. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small">next month&nbsp;we&#8217;re holding&nbsp;a bruschetta and biscotti class. we&#8217;ll make a few wonderful bruschettas, we&#8217;ll drink some chianti and we&#8217;ll bake and bake, everyone going home with a big bunch of cookies for the holidays. be there.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small">anyway,&nbsp;we had&nbsp;leftovers of the tortellini filling, so last night i invited a friend over with no real thoughts on what i might make for dinner,&nbsp;but somewhere between washing my face and putting on my <a href="http://www.merrell.com/Product/NZSZZZ/Womens-Casual-Footwear/Slip-Ons/Womens/Smooth-Black/J66322/Encore-Chill-Stitch.aspx">fuzzy lined merrell&#8217;s</a>, it came to me in a flash&#8230; i had somehow once again channeled my inner &#8216;gabrielle hamilton&#8217; and came up with this dish.</span></p>
<p><img height="329" alt="" width="495" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/sweetpotcloser.jpg" />&nbsp;</p>
<p><span style="font-size: small">i realize it doesn&#8217;t look like much. thank god for parsley. but here&#8217;s exactly what&#8217;s going on. ok. ready? the tortellini filling contained mashed sweet potatoes, egg, parmigiano, nutmeg, parsley and finely diced prosciutto. i formed it into 2 patties and rolled them in panko crumbs. i had bought a couple of king oyster mushrooms to use in my fettuccine dish, but the second night of class used only the regular oyster mushrooms. so i had this beauty sitting in my fridge. phallic? perhaps&#8230; i sliced the mushroom into long rectangular strips and grilled them until crisp. my friend had recently been to seattle and stopped into <a href="http://www.salumicuredmeats.com/">salumi</a>, batali&#8217;s dad&#8217;s charcuterie shop and brought over some guanciale. we sliced&nbsp;4 pieces&nbsp;thinly and grilled them as well.</span></p>
<p>&nbsp;<img height="600" alt="" width="417" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/417px-Pleurotus_eryngii.jpg" /><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small"><i>think 8 inches long at the very least&#8230;. (image swiped from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_oyster_mushroom">wiki</a></i></span><span style="font-size: x-small"><i>)</i></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small">so, king oyster mushrooms. who knew? i&#8217;m now totally in&nbsp;love with this cultivated funghi. i&nbsp;saw them at the asian market and had to check them out. they only run about $5 a lb and are fleshy, dense&nbsp;and meaty &#8211; almost like abalone in texture. just slice them in long vertical strips and they grill up nice and crispy on the edges. huge surprise. which only goes to prove that i need to get out more&#8230;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small">so class, to review:</span></p>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small">pan fried sweet potato cakes filled with prosciutto and parmigiano</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small">king oyster mushrooms sliced and grilled </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small">guanciale sliced and grilled </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small">with a poached egg on top </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small">a drizzle of balsamic syrup </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small">and a sprinkling of chopped parsley. </span></li>
</ul>
<p><span style="font-size: small">remarkable.</span></p>
<p><i><span style="font-size: small">this post is dedicated to these 3 bloggers&nbsp;who inspire me to try and be a better cook: jennifer from </span></i><a href="http://www.lastnightsdinner.net/"><i><span style="font-size: small">last night&#8217;s dinner</span></i></a><i><span style="font-size: small">. peter from </span></i><a href="http://quisimangiabene.blogspot.com/"><i><span style="font-size: small">cookblog</span></i></a><i><span style="font-size: small">. and heather from </span></i><a href="http://voodoolily.blogspot.com/"><i><span style="font-size: small">gild the (voodoo)lily</span></i></a><i><span style="font-size: small">.</span></i></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<slash:comments>27</slash:comments>
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		<title>yellow eye beans with sweet potato and benton&#8217;s bacon</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/bacon/2008/05/01/yellow-eye-beans-with-sweet-potato-and-bentons-bacon/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/bacon/2008/05/01/yellow-eye-beans-with-sweet-potato-and-bentons-bacon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 May 2008 04:55:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[bacon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beans]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/bacon/2008/05/01/yellow-eye-beans-with-sweet-potato-and-bentons-bacon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&#8230;and a pork chop.&#160; but in this instance, who cares?&#160; not me, that&#8217;s who.&#160; it was a run-of-the-mill chop from &#8216;the fresh market&#8217;, and personally, i can always take or leave these kind of&#160;pork chops.&#160; cary&#8217;s a fan, so i pick some up on&#160;occasion.&#160; but those beans?&#160; you&#8217;d have to fight me for those beans..&#160; [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial"><br />
<input type="image" height="314" width="495" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/yelloweye.JPG" /></span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">&#8230;and a pork chop.&nbsp;</span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">but in this instance, who cares?&nbsp; not me, that&#8217;s who.&nbsp; it was a run-of-the-mill chop from </span></span><a href="http://thefreshmarket.com/Departments/meat_pork.html"><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">&#8216;the fresh market&#8217;</span></span></a><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">, and personally, i can always take or leave these kind of&nbsp;pork chops.&nbsp; cary&#8217;s a fan, so i pick some up on&nbsp;occasion.&nbsp; but those beans?&nbsp; you&#8217;d have to fight me for those beans..&nbsp; </span></span><a href="http://www.ranchogordo.com/"><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">rancho gordo</span></span></a><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial"> &#8211; all the way&#8230; </span></span><a href="http://www.ranchogordo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&amp;Store_Code=RG&amp;Product_Code=YELEYE01&amp;Category_Code=DHAHB4"><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">yellow eyes</span></span></a><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial"> cooked with sweet potatoes, fresh thyme and&nbsp;a solid lb.&nbsp;of tennessee&#8217;s finest &#8211; salty, smoky </span></span><a href="http://bentonshams.com/order/product_info.php?cPath=24&amp;products_id=35&amp;osCsid=ecd6f83214066002601f9fefe6c8cbde"><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">&#8216;benton&#8217;s bacon&#8217;</span></span></a><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">.&nbsp; it is the burgundy of bacon&#8217;s&#8230;&nbsp; a straight forward cure of brown sugar, salt and pepper&nbsp;-&nbsp;with a heavy-handed hickory smoke.&nbsp; on a BLT it would be sheer perfection.&nbsp; i&#8217;m keeping a package in the freezer in anticipation of summer tomatoes.&nbsp; so don&#8217;t even waste your time trying to sweet talk me out of it&#8230;</span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">the yellow eyes are a creamy, dense bean.&nbsp; and totally cool looking.&nbsp; if this bean were a man, i&#8217;d do him in a&nbsp;ny minute.&nbsp;</span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">not that i like dense men&#8230;&nbsp;because i don&#8217;t.</span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial"><img height="236" alt="" width="350" src="http://static.flickr.com/118/299644731_eaac2213d8_o.jpg" /><br />
<i>(from rg&#8217;s site, i present to you the&nbsp;pulchritudinous and dense-in-a-good-way, yellow eye bean&#8230;)</i></span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">the salad was on another plate.&nbsp; sorry to deprive you of the much needed greenness.&nbsp; i kinda wasn&#8217;t thinking.&nbsp; it happens.&nbsp; a lot.&nbsp; but so you know, it was a simple toss of romaine and radicchio with toasted walnut oil and guerande salt.&nbsp;</span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">just close your eyes and pretend&#8230;</span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">&nbsp;</span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small"><span style="font-family: Arial">&nbsp;</span></span></p>
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		<slash:comments>28</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>quite the belly&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/pork/2008/03/25/quite-the-belly/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/pork/2008/03/25/quite-the-belly/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2008 05:34:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/pork/2008/03/25/quite-the-belly/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[i know&#8230; i&#8217;ve been going on and on about this slab-o-pork for awhile now, haven&#8217;t i? but really, it all began just 2 weeks ago. well, that was the day the pork belly arrived. but by the time it landed at my door i had already spent some time deciding on how i would go [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.nashvillescene.com/Stories/Columns/Dining/"><img alt="pb1.JPG" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/pb1.JPG" /></a> </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">i know&#8230; i&#8217;ve been going </span><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/eggs/2008/03/19/rc-in-the-house-episode-1-pork-belly/"><span style="font-size: small;">on</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> and </span><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/eggs/2008/03/23/pork-and-beans/"><span style="font-size: small;">on</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> about this slab-o-pork for awhile now, haven&#8217;t i?  but really, it all began just 2 weeks ago.  well, that was the day the pork belly arrived.  but by the time it landed at my door i had already spent some time deciding on how i would go about handling this pristine 8 lb. belly, and the bottom line was that i weighed some varying options and chose to go down the dan barber &#8211; <em>of famed &#8216;</em></span><a href="http://www.bluehillnyc.com/"><span style="font-size: small;"><em>blue hill/blue hill at stone barns restaurants</em></span></a><span style="font-size: small;"><em>&#8216;</em> &#8211; path and use his cure recipe.</span></p>
<p><a title="pb2.JPG" href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/pb2.JPG"><img alt="pb2.JPG" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/pb2.JPG" /></a> </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"><em>(for scale&#8230;)</em>  and here&#8217;s the deal.  well, my deal anyway.  if i am overnighting a pork belly all the way to nashville, tn from &#8216;</span><a href="http://www.nimanranch.com/control/main/"><span style="font-size: small;">niman ranchland</span></a><span style="font-size: small;">&#8216; &#8211; i&#8217;m going to be using the best ingredients that i can get my hands on.  so i ordered my spices from &#8216;</span><a href="http://www.penzeys.com/cgi-bin/penzeys/shophome.html"><span style="font-size: small;">penzeys</span></a><span style="font-size: small;">&#8216; and got grinding.  i&#8217;m including a recipe &#8211; of sorts, but there can be so very many variables, like the size of <em>your belly</em> (hehe) or your particular level of neurosis when it comes to following directions &#8211; or not, therefore bringing in to play any and all opinionated, albeit highly creative input you might have.  but the good news is that through all of this i have now found out first hand that it is pretty much impossible to actually destroy a pork belly.  and that this cure mix is so damn <em>right </em>- and then there&#8217;s all that fat which as it turns out is pretty forgiving &#8211; that is, on everything except perhaps your very own belly&#8230;   anyway, use this as a guideline, check out </span><a href="http://chimeraobscura.com/mi/bellybellybelly/"><span style="font-size: small;">amy&#8217;s recent post</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> on her experience with &#8216;The Belly&#8217; &#8211; and then if you&#8217;re so inclined, and i believe you are &#8211; get intuitive.  but i&#8217;m telling you &#8211; this &#8216;dan barber pork belly cure mix&#8217; &#8211; i can vouch that it is absolutely spot-on&#8230;</span></p>
<p><a title="pb3.JPG" href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/pb3.JPG"><img alt="pb3.JPG" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/pb3.JPG" /></a></p>
<blockquote><p><span style="font-size: small;"><strong><u>dan barber&#8217;s pork belly (as told by me)</u></strong> <br />
<small><em>heavily </em></small></span><small><em><a href="http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/232206"><span style="font-size: small;">adapted from a 2005 epicurious recipe</span></a></em></small><span style="font-size: small;">  <br type="_moz" /><br />
</span></p></blockquote>
<blockquote><p><span style="font-size: small;"><small><em>(to grind &#8211; use your whirly bird coffee grinder and when you&#8217;re finished just add some white rice and run it for 30 seconds or so and it will clean it completely &#8211; otherwise you&#8217;ll need to get out the mortar and pestle and have at it)</em></small>  <br type="_moz" /><br />
</span></p></blockquote>
<blockquote><p><span style="font-size: small;">1/4 cup fennel seed <br />
1/4 cup cumin seed <br />
1/4 cup plus 2 T coriander seed <br />
3 T black peppercorns <br />
1 T white peppercorns <br />
4 star anise <br />
4 pieces of cinnamon <br />
4 teaspoons whole clove <br />
1 cup salt <br />
2/3 cup sugar  </span><br type="_moz" />
</p></blockquote>
<blockquote><p><span style="font-size: small;">grind the spices in a coffee grinder in batches.  combine ground spices with the salt and sugar. heavily coat the belly, cover with foil and let it sit in the refrigerator, undisturbed for 3 days.  on the third day rinse the belly well, dry it thoroughly and wrap tightly in plastic, placing it back into the refrigerator.  the meat will hold for a few days at the very least now that it&#8217;s been cured.  you&#8217;ll need a baking pan that will fit the belly comfortably but without too much extra room.  place it in the pan skin up add about 2 quarts of rich chicken stock (i used a mix of my stock and water) so that it comes about 3/4 of the way up the meat braise at 200F for 8 &#8211; 10 hours (as in overnight) remove from the oven, draining the braising liquid into another pot and let the belly rest in the refrigerator for at least a day to allow for the flavors to really develop.  put the liquid into the freezer for about 90 minutes so that the fat comes to the surface and solidifies without freezing the rest of the liquid break off the fat (i saved mine in a freezer bag for future sausage making) and reserve about 3 cups.  then a few hours before your dinner, place the meat along with the &#8216;<u><em>caramel vinegar sauce&#8217;</em></u> (recipe below) into the oven for roughly an hour right before you serve &#8211; lightly score the skin (i overdid it and went too deep &#8211; live and learn), cut into serving pieces and sear skin-side down in a hot pan.   to serve, spoon the caramel vinegar sauce over the meat and lentils.</span></p></blockquote>
<p><a title="pb4.JPG" href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/pb4.JPG"><img alt="pb4.JPG" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/pb4.JPG" /></a> </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"><em>(it&#8217;s difficult to see the depth of the fat here but it&#8217;s quite a big pot and the fat is at about 1/3&quot; at center and at least 1/2&quot; on the edges)</em> </span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"> i decided early on that i&#8217;d be serving this over &#8216;</span><a href="http://markethallfoods.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_mh_info&amp;products_id=93"><span style="font-size: small;">lentils de puy</span></a><span style="font-size: small;">&#8216; a much loved variety, grown in the volcanic soil of the auvergne region of southern france.  why? because they are some esoteric little suckers, and well &#8211; i obviously get off on that.  but<strong>, </strong>even after all the thought and consideration as to my plan of attack &#8211; right in the eleventh hour, i decided that i needed to make a sauce.  and i found my inspiration from </span><a href="http://www.cuisine.com.au/recipe/crisp-pork-belly-with-caramel-vinegar"><span style="font-size: small;">this recipe</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> and then kinda riffed off of that.</span></p>
<blockquote><p><span style="font-size: small;"><strong><u>caramel vinegar sauce</u></strong>  <br type="_moz" /><br />
</span></p></blockquote>
<blockquote><p><span style="font-size: small;">1/3 cup red wine vinegar <br />
1/3 cup sherry vinegar <br />
1 cup light brown sugar <br />
4 star anise <br />
1 cinnamon stick &#8211; broken <br />
juice of 2 oranges and their zest <br />
2 cups of the reserved defatted braising liquid <br />
</span><a href="http://www.amazon.com/More-Than-Gourmet-Demi-Glace-Veau/dp/B0012N0DYM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;s=gourmet-food&amp;qid=1206499556&amp;sr=1-9"><span style="font-size: small;">veal demi-glace</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> &#8211; i used a 1.5 ounce pre-made package </span><br type="_moz" />
</p></blockquote>
<blockquote><p> <span style="font-size: small;">put the sugar, vinegar, star anise and cinnamon in a small saucepan and cook, stirring, over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved. bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes, or until syrupy. stir in the braising liquid and simmer for another 5 minutes, or until slightly reduced. add the orange juice, zest and the demi glace and reduce the heat to low and simmer gently until once again syrupy. salt to taste</span></p></blockquote>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">dear readers, it was really good.  like really really good.  and i was pretty damn pleased with myself.  pork belly has totally got the double whammy of culinary &quot;u&quot; words goin on.  umami <em>and</em> unctuous.  this dish was part of a wonderful dinner that was held at my best friend </span><a href="http://www.angelakaset.com/"><span style="font-size: small;">angela</span></a><span style="font-size: small;">&#8216;s home.  in attendance were 2 of nashville&#8217;s most talented chefs, john david crowe of &#8216;</span><a href="http://360bistro.com/"><span style="font-size: small;">360 bistro</span></a><span style="font-size: small;">&#8216; and laura wilson from &#8216;</span><a href="http://ombirestaurant.com/"><span style="font-size: small;">ombi restaurant</span></a><span style="font-size: small;">&#8216;, as well as the incredibly cool carrington fox &#8211; food critic for the &#8216;</span><a href="http://www.nashvillescene.com/Stories/Columns/Dining/"><span style="font-size: small;">nashville scene</span></a><span style="font-size: small;">&#8216;.  oh &#8211; and then a few of us foodie plebeians.  there were many wonderful dishes served as in the sweetbreads and mache fennel salad with blood orange &#8211; brought over by john and prepared on the premises, and a caramel chestnut torte from laura, along with her amazing fennel and anise meringues that i could <em>not stop</em> eating.   but regarding the final plated pic &#8211; there&#8217;s a blaring lack of the desired &#8216;money shot&#8217; that would do the belly justice, especially after all we&#8217;d been through together.  but please note that by the time this dish rolled around, we&#8217;d been feasting and drinking quite nicely.  cary whipped out his &#8216;point and shoot&#8217; and luckily saved the day &#8211; or the moment would have been consumed as quickly as the fast disappearing pork on our plates.  please know that we tried, but these shots are off the cuff and are just from around the table.  so instead of quality photography, i will just have to plow you with quantity&#8230;</span></p>
<p><a title="plated1.JPG" href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/plated1.JPG"><img alt="plated1.JPG" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/plated1.JPG" /></a> </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">(a few bites in&#8230;)</span></p>
<p><a title="plated-3.JPG" href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/plated-3.JPG"><img alt="plated-3.JPG" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/plated-3.JPG" /></a></p>
<p><a title="plated-2.JPG" href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/plated-2.JPG"><img alt="plated-2.JPG" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/plated-2.JPG" /></a></p>
<p><a title="plated-4.JPG" href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/plated-4.JPG"><img alt="plated-4.JPG" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/plated-4.JPG" /></a> </p>
<p><a title="plated-5.JPG" href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/plated-5.JPG"><img alt="plated-5.JPG" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/plated-5.JPG" /></a></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">for our gathering i also made two other dishes that i&#8217;ll tell you about later. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">  but (you ask) &#8211; was there any more pork involved? </span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"> but (i say) &#8211; of course&#8230;</span></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>pork and beans</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/eggs/2008/03/23/pork-and-beans/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/eggs/2008/03/23/pork-and-beans/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 24 Mar 2008 04:09:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[bacon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beans]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[eggs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/eggs/2008/03/23/pork-and-beans/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[i swear this dish started out as a vegetarian dinner. and it was. twice. until it just couldn&#8217;t be anymore. and really, there is so very little meat on this plate. just 2 measly strips of: &#34;MY-VERY-OWN-UNFREAKINREAL-CURED-BACONY-STUFF&#34;. i mean, who the hell knew you could do this? next thing you know i&#8217;ll be baking my [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a title="prune-wannabe2.JPG" href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/prune-wannabe2.JPG"><img alt="prune-wannabe2.JPG" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/prune-wannabe2.JPG" /></a> </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">i swear this dish started out as a vegetarian dinner.  and it was.  twice.  until it just couldn&#8217;t be anymore.  and really, there is so very little meat on this plate.  just 2 measly strips of: &quot;<em>MY-VERY-OWN-UNFREAKINREAL-CURED-BACONY-STUFF&quot;</em>.  i mean, who the hell knew you could do this?  next thing you know i&#8217;ll be baking my own baguettes&#8230;  not.  but hey, first let&#8217;s talk about the beans.  which are not just any beans.  they are </span><a href="http://www.ranchogordo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&amp;Store_Code=RG&amp;Product_Code=SCAB01&amp;Category_Code=DHAHB4"><span style="font-size: small;">rancho gordo&#8217;s scarlet runner beans</span></a><span style="font-size: small;">.  and i love them.  truly and with feeling.  here&#8217;s a fact: if you&#8217;re buying the beans on the shelf of your supermarket, just know that they can easily be up to 12 years old.  and even if you think that those beans are &quot;<em>just fine&quot;, </em>it&#8217;s only because you&#8217;ve never tried rancho gordo&#8217;s beans.  and when you do, i believe you&#8217;ll be a convert, just like me.  so there ya go.</span></p>
<p><a title="sr-beans.JPG" href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/sr-beans.JPG"><img alt="sr-beans.JPG" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/sr-beans.JPG" /></a>  </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">when i looked on </span><a href="http://www.ranchogordo.com/index.htm"><span style="font-size: small;">RG&#8217;s site</span></a><span style="font-size: small;">, they say that they like to make the scarlet runners with wild mushrooms.  so i got to thinking&#8230; and after a good long soak, i added the beans to a pot of onions that had been caramelizing for about 30 minutes.  then i added some reconstituted wild mushrooms &#8211; a good mix of porcini, morel, shitake, oyster and portabella,  &#8211; along with its (strained) soaking water.  towards the end of the cooking i added a large amount of chopped mustard greens, fresh thyme and some salt and pepper &#8211; and let the dish simmer until i felt the beans were done.  for planning purposes, please note that these beans are of the extra large variety and take a long time to cook &#8211; 3 hours or so.  <br type="_moz" /><br />
</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">so after eating the hell out of this damn fine pot-o-beans, i began to yearn for something more.  something well, meaty.  so i channeled my inner </span><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0w_6lPC4YQ"><span style="font-size: small;">gabrielle hamilton</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> from the <strong>AMAZING</strong> &#8211; but <strong><em>AMAZING</em></strong> &#8211; restaurant </span><a href="http://www.prunerestaurant.com/"><span style="font-size: small;">&#8216;prune&#8217;</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> in nyc&#8217;s east village, and i wacked a coupla slices off my beautifully cured belly, trimmed the skin off the edges and fried those porky strips right up.  and then, because it&#8217;s what i do &#8211; i poached an egg.  <br type="_moz" /><br />
</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">and you think that&#8217;s it, right?  like what more could i possibly do to improve on this, right?  well the <em>next </em>night when i gave cary the last of it for dinner, i added some leftover polenta as the bottom layer.  and i set that bowl down before him and said &quot;of all the things i&#8217;ve made in quite some time &#8211; i am the proudest of this dish&quot;.  i really think that gabrielle would be just fine offering this on the </span><a href="http://www.prunerestaurant.com/"><span style="font-size: small;">&#8216;prune&#8217;</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> menu.  no really.  i do.  <br type="_moz" /><br />
</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">delusional?  perhaps. <br type="_moz" /><br />
</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"> and the parsley sprig?  that&#8217;s so totally for you&#8230;</span></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>RC in the house &#8211; episode #1 &#8211; pork belly</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/eggs/2008/03/19/rc-in-the-house-episode-1-pork-belly/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/eggs/2008/03/19/rc-in-the-house-episode-1-pork-belly/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 20 Mar 2008 02:24:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[eggs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/eggs/2008/03/19/rc-in-the-house-episode-1-pork-belly/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[no, no &#8211; not the cola. we&#8217;re talkin&#8217; rob cox. a professional cook here in town. i love this guy for too many reasons to list. but if i were to make a list, on there somewhere would be both his exuberant passion for food, and that he&#8217;s a fun friend to have around because [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/belly-oven.JPG" title="belly-oven.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/belly-oven.JPG" alt="belly-oven.JPG" /></a>  </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">no, no &#8211; not the cola.  we&#8217;re talkin&#8217; rob cox.  a professional cook here in town.  i love this guy for too many reasons to list.  but if i <em>were </em>to make a list, on there somewhere would be both his exuberant passion for food, <em>and</em> that he&#8217;s a fun friend to have around because we get to talk about tongues and testicles &#8211; that is, of the lamb and pig persuasion.  yes, he&#8217;s a huge </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fergus_Henderson"><span style="font-size: small;">fergus henderson</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> fan.  fergus of </span><a href="http://www.stjohnrestaurant.co.uk/"><span style="font-size: small;">the restaurant &#8216;st. john</span></a><span style="font-size: small;">&#8216; &#8211; the very restaurant that <em>my</em> tony bourdain and <em>my</em> mario batali go on and on about.   i once read somewhere that if you want to get a chef all hot and bothered, just whisper pork belly in his ear.  although this was not my MO with rob &#8211; cause as great as he is i&#8217;m like really old compared to him and not single (hi baby!) &#8211; our conversation led us to the belly of the pig and i found myself ordering an 8 lb skin-on slab from </span><a href="http://www.nimanranch.com/control/product/~category_id=pork-specialty-cuts/~product_id=2005"><span style="font-size: small;">niman ranch</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> and well, when rob stopped in over the weekend, said belly was 24 hours into it&#8217;s 72 hour cure.</span></p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/img_2831-1.JPG" title="img_2831-1.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/img_2831-1.JPG" alt="img_2831-1.JPG" /></a> </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;"><em>(rob in action and yes, that IS a wind up mario batali doll)</em>  </span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">so rob comes into my kitchen with about 4 books (one of which was </span><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Wild-Food-Ebury-Paperback-Cookery/dp/0091870909/ref=ed_oe_p"><span style="font-size: small;">an imported and rare &#8216;marco pierre white&#8217; book</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> just for me!) under one arm and a big red metal tool box in his other hand.  the guy&#8217;s tool box is filled with knives, whisks, truffle shavers &#8211; you name it.  i mean is that cool or what?  by cool i mean sexy, but let&#8217;s just call it cool and then call it a day.  but rob came for a purpose and that was to cook.  and so while opening my pantry and fridge, perusing the possibilities, i proudly showed him my belly.  (this post has way too much excellent potential for sexual innuendo)&#8230;  so first thing rob does is he takes the pork and cuts off about a 2 inch strip from one side.  then that goes back in the refrigerator to continue doing what a pork belly does when it&#8217;s been heavily coated with some serious spices, salt and sugar (much more on all that coming up next week).  and then he was off and running and i was just trying to pretend that i could be of some earthly assistance.  what you see at the top is an oven roasted pork belly square with an apple walnut salad and puree of bread and arugula.  the pretty purple stuff is some of my leftover </span><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/duck/2008/03/16/breast-of-duck-with-a-blueberry-gastrique/"><span style="font-size: small;">blueberry gastrique</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> that i kept forcing rob to use.  (thanks rob.)  the walnut apple salad was made using orange blossom water, shallots, garlic, verjus and blis maple syrup.  we finished the dish off with a really wonderful smoked salt that i crushed using the side of my little &#8216;point and shoot&#8217; cannon.  i am so awesome.  </span></p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/appwalsalad.JPG" title="appwalsalad.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/appwalsalad.JPG" alt="appwalsalad.JPG" /></a> </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">we actually did the pork three ways, two for this dish.  one in the oven and the second on my super-duper-turbo-kick-ass-infrared-ceramic plated grill.  the grilled piece tasted better, but the meat didn&#8217;t look as attractive, so in the name of visuals it got second billing below &#8211; but it had the better skin crunch going on by far.  i just wanted to impress you right off with the better pic.  </span></p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/belly-grilled.JPG" title="belly-grilled.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/belly-grilled.JPG" alt="belly-grilled.JPG" /></a> </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">next up rob decided to do oeufs en cocotte &#8211; or baked eggs.  so he took some of the raw pork belly and diced it into lardons and then we placed that in a pan and began to render out the fat, adding water to aid the process.  a ramekin was coated with some </span><a href="https://www.dartagnan.com/item.asp?item=PMTBB008"><span style="font-size: small;">black truffle butter</span></a><span style="font-size: small;"> and then the lardons went in next followed by 2 carefully cracked eggs and a generous grating of parmigiano, being it was the only cheese in the house &#8211; and breadcrumbs.  the ramekin went into a water bath and as we were about to place it in the oven&#8230;  </span></p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/porkbellyegg1.JPG" title="porkbellyegg1.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/porkbellyegg1.JPG" alt="porkbellyegg1.JPG" /></a>  </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">we realized what was missing!</span></p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/eggwithmore.JPG" title="eggwithmore.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/eggwithmore.JPG" alt="eggwithmore.JPG" /></a>  </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">more truffle butter!  what could we have been thinking?  more butter + more truffles = more better!  </span></p>
<p><a href="http://www.cokeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/baked-eggs.JPG" title="baked-eggs.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/baked-eggs.JPG" alt="baked-eggs.JPG" /></a>  </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">eggs how i love thee.  but then to surround you by truffled up butter, pork belly and parmigiano, i am just in awe&#8230; </span></p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/bakedeggs2.JPG" title="bakedeggs2.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/bakedeggs2.JPG" alt="bakedeggs2.JPG" /></a>  </p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">i will say that a little pork belly goes a very long way.  kind of like foie gras.  but damn if it isn&#8217;t just an amazing cut of meat. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small;">  pork belly&#8230;  it&#8217;s not just what&#8217;s for bacon anymore&#8230;</span></p>
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		<title>wild fennel pollen dusted pork tenderloin</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/pork/2007/11/03/wild-fennel-pollen-dusted-pork-tenderloin/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/pork/2007/11/03/wild-fennel-pollen-dusted-pork-tenderloin/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 17:51:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/pork/2007/11/03/wild-fennel-pollen-dusted-pork-tenderloin/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[about a month ago i bought some tuscan wild fennel pollen and it&#8217;s been on my mind to break it out.  last night it premiered in my kitchen.  did you hear about it?  because it was very exciting &#8211; if one is so inclined to feel that way about such things&#8230; like my spanish smokey pimenton, the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/img_1793.JPG" title="img_1793.JPG"></a><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/img_1778-1.JPG" title="img_1778-1.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/img_1778-1.JPG" alt="img_1778-1.JPG" /></a></p>
<p>about a month ago i bought some tuscan <a target="_blank" href="http://www.markethallfoods.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_mh_info&amp;cPath=49&amp;products_id=107&amp;gclid=CNb26YiXwY8CFTaEOAodkT1Eeg">wild fennel pollen</a> and it&#8217;s been on my mind to break it out.  last night it premiered in my kitchen.  did you hear about it?  because it was very exciting &#8211; if one is so inclined to feel that way about such things&#8230;</p>
<p>like my spanish smokey pimenton, the fennel pollen was quite the find.  for me, these spices fall into the &#8216;totally transforming&#8217; category.  and as couples go, wild fennel pollen and pork are just the perfect match.  they were meant to be together.  they bring out the best in one another.  it&#8217;s sheer harmony and a beautiful thing &#8211; all at once.  hard to top that.</p>
<p>so listen up because i&#8217;m only going to tell you once.  3 ingredients.  fennel pollen.  salt.  pepper.  you&#8217;re done.  and some pork and olive oil.  i bought a 1 lb. tenderloin and asked the butcher to butterfly it for me.  just take the 3 spices using equal amounts and rub the mixture into both sides of the meat and let it sit for about an hour.  then i rolled it up the short way and tied it with butcher string. </p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/img_1751.JPG" title="img_1751.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/img_1751.JPG" alt="img_1751.JPG" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/img_1754-1.JPG" title="img_1754-1.JPG"></a></p>
<p>for the vegetable sides i decided upon some roasted brussel sprouts and csa butternut squash, along with eggplant chips &#8211; my latest greatest way to use my seemingly never ending supply of these.  i used the pale purple chinese eggplants (from the csa), slicing them on the diagonal.  the 3 vegetables were all treated lightly with nothing but olive oil, salt and pepper.  just enough to bring out who they really were &#8211; and probably would continue to be were you to decide to replicate this down to earth vegetable vibe. </p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/img_1764.JPG" title="img_1764.JPG"><img width="195" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/img_1764.JPG" alt="img_1764.JPG" height="238" style="width: 195px; height: 238px" /></a><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/img_1768-1.JPG" title="img_1768-1.JPG"><img width="188" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/img_1768-1.JPG" alt="img_1768-1.JPG" height="238" style="width: 188px; height: 238px" /></a></p>
<p>the pork sliced in a cool kinda spirally way that can&#8217;t help but lull you into a false sense of momentary chefdom.  and then you wake up and plate the rest and delight in your rustic, simple dinner.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/img_1793.JPG" title="img_1793.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/img_1793.JPG" alt="img_1793.JPG" /></a></p>
<p>metaphor&#8217;s for life, they&#8217;re everywhere&#8230;</p>
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		<title>3 greens, sweet potato and chorizo stew</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/potatoes/2007/10/29/3-greens-sweet-potato-and-chorizo-stew/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/potatoes/2007/10/29/3-greens-sweet-potato-and-chorizo-stew/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 30 Oct 2007 03:52:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[greens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[potatoes]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/potatoes/2007/10/29/3-greens-sweet-potato-and-chorizo-stew/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[eating down the house.  continued&#8230; i read a fair few blogs and am constantly inspired by these people who understand food so well.  it certainly makes cooking easier on me.  tonight i riffed off one of my all-time fave blogs, smitten kitchen and enlisted a touch of help from minimally invasive (orange zest/pimenton = wow). [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1681.JPG" title="img_1681.JPG"></a><a target="_blank" href="http://smittenkitchen.com/2007/10/sweet-potato-and-sausage-soup/#more-324"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1702.JPG" alt="img_1702.JPG" /></a></p>
<p>eating down the house.  continued&#8230;</p>
<p>i read a fair few blogs and am constantly inspired by these people who understand food so well.  it certainly makes cooking easier on me.  tonight i riffed off one of my all-time fave blogs, <a target="_blank" href="http://smittenkitchen.com/2007/10/sweet-potato-and-sausage-soup/">smitten kitchen</a> and enlisted a touch of help from <a target="_blank" href="http://chimeraobscura.com/mi/hominy-hominy-hominy/">minimally invasive</a> (orange zest/pimenton = wow).</p>
<p>i bought one large yellow onion along with 3 organic valencia oranges for zest.  everything else was in the house.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1681.JPG" title="img_1681.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1681.JPG" alt="img_1681.JPG" /></a></p>
<p>i sauteed the one big onion and the last of my small ones in some olive oil.  when they were about to brown i added the chopped sweet potatoes, the last of my fresh sage, the zest of 3 oranges, niman ranch chorizo sausage, and a mixture of turnip, red russian kale and collard greens along with a litre of chicken broth &#8211; in no particular order.  i salt and peppered to taste and then added some (magic) sweet smoked pimenton.</p>
<p>the sweet potatoes and greens were all from my csa.  i used quite a bit of both.  but somehow, i still have more&#8230;  they are reproducing overnight.  like rabbits.</p>
<p>it was a one pot meal.  and really, this was so good.  but so very, very good.  in fact, surprisingly excellent.  a bonafide winner!</p>
<p>i&#8217;d love to go on about it some more but i am tired and have to wake up early&#8230;</p>
<p>(yawn)</p>
<p>ps &#8211; i can&#8217;t say it was a stoup.  i just can&#8217;t&#8230;  way too rachel ray on the lingo for me.</p>
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		<slash:comments>9</slash:comments>
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		<title>wild mushroom and sausage bolognese over strozzapreti</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/pasta/2007/10/26/wild-mushroom-and-sausage-bolognese-over-strozzapreti/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/pasta/2007/10/26/wild-mushroom-and-sausage-bolognese-over-strozzapreti/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Oct 2007 09:51:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[mushrooms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pasta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/pasta/2007/10/26/wild-mushroom-and-sausage-bolognese-over-strozzapreti/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[in keeping with my &#8216;eating down the house&#8216; challenge, the only ingredient that i needed for last night&#8217;s dinner was some cream, something that i rarely if ever buy or cook with - if only out of a healthy dose of fear.  but i had perused my freezer, fridge and pantry and had a pretty solid idea of what direction i&#8217;d be heading.  i reached [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1649.JPG" title="img_1649.JPG"></a><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1664.JPG" title="img_1664.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1664.JPG" alt="img_1664.JPG" /></a></p>
<p>in keeping with my &#8216;<a target="_blank" href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/seafood/2007/10/19/eating-down-the-house/">eating down the house</a>&#8216; challenge, the <em>only</em> ingredient that i needed for last night&#8217;s dinner was some cream, something that i rarely if ever buy or cook with - if only out of a healthy dose of fear.  but i had perused my freezer, fridge and pantry and had a pretty solid idea of what direction i&#8217;d be heading.  i reached for the frozen niman ranch sweet italian sausage, the opened can of tomato paste and the leftover fresh thyme from last weekend. </p>
<p>but the plan was sealed when i spotted the small but coveted bag of dried morels and another of porcinis tucked away in a corner top shelf of my freezer, leftovers from a bulk buy i&#8217;d made from <a target="_blank" href="http://www.earthy.com/Dried_Exotic_Mushrooms_C29.cfm">earthy&#8217;s</a>.  i hesitate to say it, but i figured i&#8217;d been hanging on to them for at least three years now and their well overdo time had finally come.  i&#8217;m sure their three frigid trips around the sun wasn&#8217;t working in their favor but i was hopeful that they&#8217;d still pack that smoky rich and fragrant punch that i love so much.  (later, when i checked the current price of dried morel&#8217;s my jaw literally dropped.) </p>
<p>so then i&#8217;m at the store facing this wall of orderly bottles and cartons.  the assorted dairy soldiers are all lined up in colorful uniform, standing at attention armed with various counts of deadly fat grams. and i come to the sober realization after reading the nutritional labels and doing the math that the very small box of fat laden heavy cream was just not going to pass through either my front door - or my lips.  there had to be a line drawn.  and by god, this was it.  i grabbed the organic half and half and feeling only vaguely better about my choice, headed for the checkout line with a nagging suspicion that no one ever cooks with half and half.  half and half, it&#8217;s what&#8217;s in your coffee.  half and half, the name itself feels so non-committal. </p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1649.JPG" title="img_1649.JPG"></a><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1649-1.JPG" title="img_1649-1.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1649-1.JPG" alt="img_1649-1.JPG" /></a></p>
<p><em>(the dried morel and porcini mushrooms)</em></p>
<p>early in the evening when i began to assemble all the elements, i knew a red wine would be in order, most of it to be sacrificed to the sauce.  the only thing i currently had in stock that was sacrificable was an &#8217;03 clos du bois cabernet.  a bit nicer than my usual cooking wine, but i salvaged one big glass for me and offered up the rest to the bolognese gods.  (note to self: buy wine for cooking.)</p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1652.JPG" title="img_1652.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1652.JPG" alt="img_1652.JPG" /></a></p>
<p><em>(the mushrooms rehydrated)</em></p>
<p>i began by soaking the mushrooms in warm water.  then i sauteed onions in some olive oil and added the sausage meat.  next i poured in the wine and cooked it down to perhaps a half cup of liquid.  then i added the chopped rehydrated mushrooms along with most of a can of tomato paste.  the fresh thyme was de-stemmed and a big fistful was added to the pan along with salt and a generous helping of coarsely ground black pepper.  finally in went some half and half and while i carefully brought the heat back up and the sauce began to thicken, i thinned it all down with the reserved and carefully strained mushroom soaking water.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1661-1.JPG" title="img_1661-1.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/img_1661-1.JPG" alt="img_1661-1.JPG" /></a></p>
<p>at about that time, angela called and i offered for her to come by and pick up some dinner for her and bruce.  they got the half unused bag of strozzapreti (literal translation: priest choker) and a tupperware of the just finished sauce.  i was thrilled to not have leftovers &#8211; and to be able to feed my friends.</p>
<p>it was a heavy meal, no doubt.  but the fat content was considerably lower than it might have been had i not had the sane concept of substituting for what was the &#8216;better, richer&#8217; ingredient.  heavy cream, we did not miss you.</p>
<p>eating down the house &#8211; to be continued&#8230;</p>
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		<slash:comments>11</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>tendergroin</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/random/2007/10/24/tendergroin/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/random/2007/10/24/tendergroin/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Oct 2007 04:49:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[random]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/random/2007/10/24/tendergroin/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[tonight amongst many true culinary crowd pleasing delights i ate pig testicles and they were kinda really ok seriously&#8230; fyi: nothing like chicken&#8230; enough said.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/227526315_31ddc45d62.jpg" title="pigballs.jpg"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/227526315_31ddc45d62.jpg" alt="pigballs.jpg" /></a><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/pigballs.jpg" title="pigballs.jpg"></a></p>
<p>tonight<br />
amongst many true culinary crowd pleasing delights<br />
i ate<br />
pig<br />
testicles</p>
<p>and they were kinda really ok<br />
seriously&#8230;</p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/81.jpg" title="rawpigballs.jpg"><img width="323" src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/81.jpg" alt="rawpigballs.jpg" height="220" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/rawpigballs.jpg" title="rawpigballs.jpg"></a></p>
<p>fyi: nothing like chicken&#8230;</p>
<p>enough said.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>23</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>orecchiette with sausage and rapini</title>
		<link>http://www.cookeatfret.com/pasta/2007/09/01/orecchiette-with-sausage-and-rapini/</link>
		<comments>http://www.cookeatfret.com/pasta/2007/09/01/orecchiette-with-sausage-and-rapini/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 02 Sep 2007 02:13:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>claudia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[greens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pasta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pork]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cookeatfret.com/pasta/2007/09/01/orecchiette-with-sausage-and-rapini/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[saw it.  had to do it.  and it&#8217;s so not about me except to say that i followed directions, barely veering &#8211; and if i may say, i did a bang up job. for any and all info please go and visit the woman who once again made it all possible &#8211; jennifer of &#8216;last [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/09/img_1980.JPG" title="img_1980.JPG"><img src="http://www.cookeatfret.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/09/img_1980.JPG" alt="img_1980.JPG" /></a></p>
<p>saw it.  had to do it.  and it&#8217;s so not about me except to say that i followed directions, barely veering &#8211; and if i may say, i did a bang up job.</p>
<p>for any and all info please go and visit the woman who once again made it all possible &#8211; jennifer of &#8216;<a target="_blank" href="http://www.lastnightsdinner.net/2007/08/30/fall-back-and-punt/">last night&#8217;s dinner</a>&#8216;. </p>
<p>i used the <a target="_blank" href="http://www.nimanranch.com/control/product/~category_id=40002/~product_id=397650-91-01">niman ranch sweet italian sausage</a> which are to my delight readily available at my local supermarket, albeit already cooked.  skinned and chopped, they worked just beautifully.  i also used a pretty good pile of regular finely minced garlic, as scapes down south were (sadly) so two months ago&#8230;  for the wine i used a really nice sancerre which was almost a sin, but it&#8217;s what i was drinking that evening and i recently ran out of my bottle of noilly prat.  i drink so infrequently these days that if i&#8217;m pouring a glass, it&#8217;s got to blow my mind.  i&#8217;m on a sancerre kick which is somewhat unfortunate as it appears the price of these wines have recently escalated.  $25 at the very minimum for a decent bottle.  damnittohell.  cary bought me two excellent bottles a few weeks back and i&#8217;ve been hoarding them.  one almost down, one to go&#8230;</p>
<p>this dish is a huge shot of flavor.  the richness of the sausage, the bitterness of the rapini, the sharp bite yet smooth texture of the pecorino and the deep tomato flavor all add up to a major taste sensation. </p>
<p>and the testament of how superb this pasta dish is was that the two kids cleaned their plates.</p>
<p>green stuff and all.</p>
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		<slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
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